tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-62330969878770214352024-03-14T07:00:36.542-07:00Model Car Builder BlogHobby site for Model Car BuildersCharlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.comBlogger166125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-75263688675099825962016-08-08T07:56:00.000-07:002016-08-08T07:56:12.996-07:00End of the Line? Hi there if you haven't noticed there has been no post in a while. <br />
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I may move soon and to that end I need to stop building for a bit. I may not have the room in my new place I have now.<br />
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I am going to sell some or most of my unbuilt kits and stash of parts on Ebay. Once I'm settled I might be back into this. It's been a fun distraction.<br />
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Here's one more thing before I run along--if you want to finish building the 65 Chevy pickup mentioned immediately below drop me a line, if you are in Continental US I will send you the kit built so far. yes I will eat the postage. It's yours. finish it, use it for parts or whatever. <br />
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The body is still in plastic and needs a bit more prep, but other things are painted, and the interior is built.<br />
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First come, first served. See ya!Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-90526571774502778352016-04-25T20:14:00.000-07:002016-04-25T20:14:17.074-07:00Chevy Pickup--1965--Basic model car painting Revisited<b>If you've been following this blog </b>I don't think you will read much this time you haven't already read. I've been back into this silly hobby for about 10 years and the technique I use to paint regular old parts hasn't changed much for the past few years. Sorry. But just by way of review, here's how I do it--I am not some NNL or CSI or NHL or whatever it's called model champ so take it for what it's worth. And everything I say here was learned from reading or watching videos. Nothing is "original"!<br />
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First--remove all parts from sprues but where it makes sense to do so, leave a bit of sprue on there. The shocks for instance. We need some easy way to clip them to "ponzi sticks" for painting. And of course, remove all flash, debris, cross-tweeze, mold lines (every part has one) and so on. I have really gotten into good clean up. It satisfies my OCD to clean up all the grime, burrs, and dookie. Glue together what you can before painting. So far, easy right?<br />
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I know from experience that if I'm going to glue anything painted together and have it stick you have to scrape the paint away first. I hate spending a ton of time endlessly scraping paint so I have started to use more of Microscales' "Micro Mask" first. Brush some on, let it dry before you paint, and trim away what you don't want with an exacto knife. Then when it's time to scrape, just scrape a bit of the mask and (hopefully!) the whole mask comes off and you're back to bare plastic. BTW MM thins out with acrylic thinner and cleans up with water. Good stuff, but it can be hard to remove from deep crevices. So I don't use it everywhere but for chassis joints I used it pretty liberally.<br />
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Now it's time to "Ponzi stick" the parts. I took a bunch of wooden skewers for making shish-kabob and superglued alligator clips to one end. I clip the part (a bit I don't want painted, or can touch up later, see why you leave the sprue sometimes?) and then shove the sharp end into some styrofoam. </div>
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Now grab up some paint. A lot of chassis and undercarriage work is flat or matt black and silver/aluminum. it's actually a bit boring, but I guess I could be making model clown figures or whatever--um, not. I have a bunch of Tamiya matt black lying around, I really like that stuff. Krylon or Duplicolor's chrome looks more like aluminum to me, but it's good enough. The green is whatever I had lying around that wasn't silver or black; I'll use for the shocks.<br />
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I paint in the back yard and then let it dry as you see here. The tools are to keep the wind from blowing the whole thing over which would really suck. What I really don't want to do is stink up my house so it'll stay outside for a while.<br />
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Now here's the trickiest thing of all. The frame assembly needs 2 or 3 coats, so I put on a thin coat and walk away. This is NOT easy to do!! But if I tried to cover this in one coat it will run and look crappy. Again, I will let it all dry outside to not stink up the house. Global warming at work! Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-57199092413478456172016-02-28T10:47:00.001-08:002016-03-02T03:43:09.964-08:0065 Chevy Stepside Box Stock Build: How I am Doing it These DaysOK I am <strong>sick of the AMT 69 Chevelle</strong> rebuild so I put it aside am and going to build something a lot easier. A box stock Revell 1:25 pickup...that I bought a few months ago....will fill the bill.<br />
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Pickups are easy, I think, because they don't have a lot of trim that needs bare metal foil, have nice large bodies that make painting pretty easy, and relatively square surfaces that make sanding and prep go fast. I got this Revell "Trucks!" kit, 85-7210, at a Walmart Blowout for eight bucks! OK, no mods, no tricks, just a basic box stock build right?<br />
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I imagine if you get 100 builders together they will have 100 different ways to do a box stock build. For me, first thing I do is take out all the "white plastic" (non clear, non chome etc.) and wash it with warm water and dish soap and let it dry. I have read this gets rid of mold release agents and other chemicals on the parts. In reality, I have skipped this step many times and not seen a heck of a lot of difference.<br />
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Next up I go through each step in the directions, cut the parts from the sprues, and bag each group of like parts. Yo!! So: one bag. for the interior, one for the engine, one for the body parts, etc. Sometimes I will leave a bit of sprue somewhere to help with painting (more on this next time, and I have talked about this before). <br />
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I like doing prep work in batches, like trimming parts from sprues, otherwise I am picking up my sprue cutter 100000 times during the build vs. just blasting it all out at once. <br />
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Next it's clean up time....I go through every part--yes, every single one, and get rid of mold lines, flash, ejector pins, and any other gremlin I can find. Even if I think the part's defect will be invisible! For this I use a series of files and sandpaper, putty, and glue. And if I work efficiently it goes pretty fast.<br />
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This particular kit was remarkably free from flash and mold lines. However there are some ejector pins or ejector holes or ejection donuts whatever you call them all over. My understanding is that these are used during the casting process to "shoot the parts out of the mold". And little disk is visible from whatever is used to do the shooting.<br />
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Revell's craftsmen were careful to try to put these ejector holes on a non visible surface, but they can affect parts fit, and they always bug me, so I get rid of all of 'em anyway. Sometimes they easily sand or file out, but in this case, for this particular body part, they were really deep, so I am using Tamiya Light Curing putty, which dries relatively quickly and is easy to sand out when it's dry. I apply this, let it bake overnight, and then run some sanding sticks over it.<br />
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Sink marks are another thing to watch for. As I understand this: this is when the cast part "sags" a bit while cooling off. You don't want these--they look bad, can affect parts fit, and in general drive me crazy. Fortunately this kit didn't have a lot of sink marks; some of the older AMT kits or whatever have a ton, but this kit was pretty good. Again, light curing putty and files to the rescue.<br />
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OK! once the cleanup is done, I will unbag the parts groups and start test fitting. Here, I am trying out the exhaust/axle/frame fit, because I have seen this be extremely problematic on a lot of kits. For this build, the exhaust pipe setup wasn't documented well, but it looks like it will glue up OK without heating and rebending, which is nice.<br />
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And of course the body needs extra attention, always--this is what everyone sees! This particular kit has a lot of body parts, I count 13. Since I want to try to paint this as a unit, I am going to preassemble it and clean it up once glued.<br />
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Here's what I have after some gluing. The hood fit is dicey; it almost always is, and is going to need some more work.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfFHQanCH2HJMmFWaRugvZLaQrFgL4yfW57xGC7p1i2YclYNAkNe9pCKim7yQcTP6Akt9nhSCaj-6hnOg-R4qokUzh89gjbdMsuicR9y9GH2Ow1L8krT0P0EreVrc5Hwr8YEGgA_qNxl2v/s1600/hood-issuie30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="588" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfFHQanCH2HJMmFWaRugvZLaQrFgL4yfW57xGC7p1i2YclYNAkNe9pCKim7yQcTP6Akt9nhSCaj-6hnOg-R4qokUzh89gjbdMsuicR9y9GH2Ow1L8krT0P0EreVrc5Hwr8YEGgA_qNxl2v/s640/hood-issuie30.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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That's a big seam, so big you can drive a truck through it; But this is a truck, so perhaps you can drive it through itself? Something like that. The hood is a 4 piece affair. I know it has to be sturdy or will fall apart when I try to clean it up. So I glued it from the inside and will let it dry overnight before trying to fill in the above seam and try to improve the fit. The complex shape will make this a bit tricky, but i figure I will manage. <br />
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Next time: prep for paint. Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-78211232583075659342016-02-13T09:24:00.001-08:002016-02-13T09:24:16.355-08:0069 Chevelle--Oh You're No FUN AnymoreFor the handful of folks following this blog you may have noticed no posts lately! The attempt to modernize the AMT 69 Chevelle 1:25 kit is driving me crazy....to the point where, no model making for the past couple of months. It feels like more work on this build would be a waste of time.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF2SFaLNAKjof90BQVH0DTa4jrXFwdtcK-SHDjfZkgSU5d-tOiYLlKyPQSjy992d4mY255ZD8eHmqE8_rlDQcNVP34kav7ZnQHP7gDEt9bKroKqTZsh5ygDvkhh_xdXmWgQwpPHHMYs9Fs/s1600/threequartersfront4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF2SFaLNAKjof90BQVH0DTa4jrXFwdtcK-SHDjfZkgSU5d-tOiYLlKyPQSjy992d4mY255ZD8eHmqE8_rlDQcNVP34kav7ZnQHP7gDEt9bKroKqTZsh5ygDvkhh_xdXmWgQwpPHHMYs9Fs/s640/threequartersfront4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So here's what I have so far. The body has been worked over a few times, wheel flares added (because the originals on the AMT kit, and I bought two of them) stunk. OK that was some work, and in doing that, the body began to warp. So I got out the chassis I will mate this to--from an <a href="http://www.round2models.com/models/amt/hurst-olds">AMT 69 Olds</a>, that had more "modern tooling", and banded it all together. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1mPH5PO-VYA6ItuLb8hNFb0F3oh-EnxCb8a3npIcO4T0TNjIE_OmCq-9bADulckT22fPQn6crcM4Kn9hcx-vNYrZxo55ns0olKQL73S07BwXA8TSSwp7EGYUpGgMyqmv8uhOB6LOnMmVO/s1600/seats9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1mPH5PO-VYA6ItuLb8hNFb0F3oh-EnxCb8a3npIcO4T0TNjIE_OmCq-9bADulckT22fPQn6crcM4Kn9hcx-vNYrZxo55ns0olKQL73S07BwXA8TSSwp7EGYUpGgMyqmv8uhOB6LOnMmVO/s640/seats9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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In the meantime I went to work on seats. The ones provided by <a href="http://www.round2models.com/models/amt/chevelle-convertible">the AMT kit </a>look nothing like the 1:1 originals, and leave out basics like the seat headrests, clearly visible on the box art. The Olds seats are closer, but still not a perfect match. (Sorry.) I razor sawed out the center console and glued the seats to it, filling in the gaps with some .01 sheet styrene. Since I am considering probably never touching a plastic model again, this will have to do.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZjxV9aTrZBsUHJ-VShgiK4lsc_qiGuAReEOwS4L4lefmkL_58quURZPaYNYeydbkc3v1G38ET8d1WRLBByLQaDP5xL9htu08P9hsxWOGJkZDQgbrzkrAd5MoZK1J6uEzQ68p_XwfKUgBZ/s1600/ejectorpin91.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="528" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZjxV9aTrZBsUHJ-VShgiK4lsc_qiGuAReEOwS4L4lefmkL_58quURZPaYNYeydbkc3v1G38ET8d1WRLBByLQaDP5xL9htu08P9hsxWOGJkZDQgbrzkrAd5MoZK1J6uEzQ68p_XwfKUgBZ/s640/ejectorpin91.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The hits keep coming! The ejector pins are everywhere in the AMT Chevelle kit. At least this time they didn't put the pin right over the floor matte. Lucky day. This will have to be filed out, and the "carpeting" redone, probably with embossing material. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhblPx_6gPI4dwvICkDJ6qnrCs6rZ9C5UtpwvaQnhtRdj3z4qWKEiJ7ioL13Ec6_8yOo52EqVf29zflRK233IZvUGGnA5V6TqpKareoddWcAQMHxKFzCTSwI-K4DWdJFslDFPhh7A0yftQl/s1600/badprimer92.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhblPx_6gPI4dwvICkDJ6qnrCs6rZ9C5UtpwvaQnhtRdj3z4qWKEiJ7ioL13Ec6_8yOo52EqVf29zflRK233IZvUGGnA5V6TqpKareoddWcAQMHxKFzCTSwI-K4DWdJFslDFPhh7A0yftQl/s640/badprimer92.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And of course the priming I did looks like cottage cheese. You have to prime body reworks like this several times, and it only takes one bad round to have it come out like this. So it all has to be sanded and reprimed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2o1yOGI460qRzTDgCxnMJuSHsMqAGeNjnhVKsizwfTc3miT9oZ0MKrY6i_XgPbIe0pzpH6cCCUKY7zc9miT1sjYskt727REw__VrY2_ZpvCvJwR5pG5dEM5FZi7eCTYChSw-nzHINykUn/s1600/threequarterfrot5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2o1yOGI460qRzTDgCxnMJuSHsMqAGeNjnhVKsizwfTc3miT9oZ0MKrY6i_XgPbIe0pzpH6cCCUKY7zc9miT1sjYskt727REw__VrY2_ZpvCvJwR5pG5dEM5FZi7eCTYChSw-nzHINykUn/s640/threequarterfrot5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Overall I am at the end of my rope here. I could spend endless hours on this build, and then have Revell put out a new tool of it that kicks my work's butt. I am not sure there is any point. I may put this one up on the shelf again, and then think about selling off my paints, kits, and tools. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQTUgopeGpfRIq9-OP6FR1Alol9vjbxM2beR2vooMv1YlEP5pN1X89ydPpmadPh2yI5IOHxRTj-LvTC3dI3fuOiTA8e7d6fbBSDogeBdSplh1qQCt8eED_z0GbUgyejZCxasLoPK8t-dNT/s1600/body-w-parts8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQTUgopeGpfRIq9-OP6FR1Alol9vjbxM2beR2vooMv1YlEP5pN1X89ydPpmadPh2yI5IOHxRTj-LvTC3dI3fuOiTA8e7d6fbBSDogeBdSplh1qQCt8eED_z0GbUgyejZCxasLoPK8t-dNT/s640/body-w-parts8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And, the molding on the dash and firewall look like they were from the Jurassic period; a lot of work will be needed to get this to an acceptable level of details. To me this just isn't that fun any longer. If you don't see another post for a few months this is why. I am not sure if I am just going to shelve this project or give up on the entire hobby for awhile.<br />
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Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-14438977424936576302015-11-17T01:57:00.001-08:002015-11-18T08:07:05.058-08:0066 El Camino-FINISHED!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<strong>Another month gone, another model done!</strong> This time a <a href="http://www.revell.com/model-kits/cars/85-2045.html#.Vkr5NXmFNaQ">Revell 66 El Camino</a>. I ended up building it box stock except for the wheels (from the <a href="http://www.round2models.com/models/amt/chevelle-convertible">AMT 69 Chevelle</a>) and the wheels (from my scrap box, no idea where they came from?). A tiny bit of photo etch was used, for the door locks, for instance.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgELo8TvNsFlTQ0eGPvCSeg51pWh2tcPpnfq_odRzWDlpYBcETzpTRV6oofcBeDYIF79Dih2oGdf27MIrVUhriznyi5mvsiPsqKjZGhxYPvqEfVs_J2HLwZ3W2ImLJnI59UbqRRTUdGoG33/s1600/el-camino-side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgELo8TvNsFlTQ0eGPvCSeg51pWh2tcPpnfq_odRzWDlpYBcETzpTRV6oofcBeDYIF79Dih2oGdf27MIrVUhriznyi5mvsiPsqKjZGhxYPvqEfVs_J2HLwZ3W2ImLJnI59UbqRRTUdGoG33/s640/el-camino-side.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Beyond that? Nothing new to report here. This was another pretty easy build, a good kit that went together easily.</div>
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I'm trying, as always to keep things clean, and to make the most of the little time I have to build these days. I could have spent more time on the photo lighting, but, there you go.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEsL87-5qoRObQvu1nt3Q5PYzcwYTNdfaxNjk2GSXomWN-7bxt5JZeJwOOHTHWqSzZp1LkBmdxBvHmuVbPBhq3nc_ENzpgeEOIuGOm2cbALqjhyphenhypheno4qZzDn3xJ25bogMn2kQ4gCt9Pl9lUx/s1600/elcamino-birdseye73.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEsL87-5qoRObQvu1nt3Q5PYzcwYTNdfaxNjk2GSXomWN-7bxt5JZeJwOOHTHWqSzZp1LkBmdxBvHmuVbPBhq3nc_ENzpgeEOIuGOm2cbALqjhyphenhypheno4qZzDn3xJ25bogMn2kQ4gCt9Pl9lUx/s640/elcamino-birdseye73.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Not much to say, except, after 10 years now of being back in the hobby, my skills I feel have improved a bit. This was a fun build and came out pretty clean.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlmQfvECvQNjQmvdopjUjfHRqNSEYXWLUMfQAKWVmpOwtnNEHHOPxIG8TQZSsFzwlGM_aft4g4pkeP1qVo89zp4FKPjLYoHmEAlBl5-7KrZQf1BxSPahvR5CNWEISc6NUal8WjYKKsZMWU/s1600/elcamino-nohood74.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlmQfvECvQNjQmvdopjUjfHRqNSEYXWLUMfQAKWVmpOwtnNEHHOPxIG8TQZSsFzwlGM_aft4g4pkeP1qVo89zp4FKPjLYoHmEAlBl5-7KrZQf1BxSPahvR5CNWEISc6NUal8WjYKKsZMWU/s640/elcamino-nohood74.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The key it seems is to be patient. That's the center of success in this hobby: Extremely patient. Silly patient. Simple stuff: Always scrape the paint off, and get down to "bare plastic", before the glue goes on. Try to line things up before the glue dries. And: Try to let one assembly dry before trying to stick on the next thing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYE6_jLl6ytlik8yv3fROeUV5FT4wAeNzmOvxZXXLULB8WkqAbq9_LF6h3GtlbKXSVo6RX1IZ4UgrBcymHnVOUGhi_q26flMu4EAsXeZD4NQESDHZ_sGxSNOnYQsJpMhyphenhyphenorTcwjWEkUebh/s1600/elcamino-topdown2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYE6_jLl6ytlik8yv3fROeUV5FT4wAeNzmOvxZXXLULB8WkqAbq9_LF6h3GtlbKXSVo6RX1IZ4UgrBcymHnVOUGhi_q26flMu4EAsXeZD4NQESDHZ_sGxSNOnYQsJpMhyphenhyphenorTcwjWEkUebh/s640/elcamino-topdown2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So what next? Back to the <a href="http://modelcarbuilder.blogspot.com/2015/06/69-chevy-chevelle-thrill-of-grille.html">69 Chevelle</a> I guess, which, if nothing else, will be more challenging. I guess?</div>
<br />Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-64573286971586143052015-09-24T09:20:00.003-07:002015-09-24T09:23:06.438-07:00Pain in the Glass Parts #13 and 35<b>You'd think after 10 years of being back in the hobby I could put in a windshield without making a huge mess</b>, but if you do, think again. The glass for the <a href="http://modelcarbuilder.blogspot.com/2015/06/69-chevy-chevelle-thrill-of-grille.html">66 Chevelle </a>needed to go in and I found myself procrastinating. Like <a href="http://www.bare-metal.com/">Bare Metal Foil</a>, scale glass can be a pain and if I don't do it, I won't screw it up.<br />
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But the damn model won't be done either. So here's my current technique. First, I cut the plastic glass of the sprues and immediately bag it up or wrap it up. I can't tell you how many times I've scratched or damaged the glass before I even attempt to glue it into the model.<br />
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Next up using a #11 e-xacto I scrape anywhere I need to add glue. It's been my experience, and you should message me if you think I'm wrong, that NO modelers glue, ANYWHERE will penetrate paint (or chrome, for that matter). So very delicate scraping, like the A pillar here, is in order, and patience as always is the key.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgREYKWYKdGOP9z2SBVRNmyRpL-VXEYI8rzWpY3UQWcTzWRfy8LOoSE1ipS_AvWXe6P5h5OYhmSAgMZwXiqEL73t320A0uoolS0l2t-Ue2JIzockllllqjJ0F6f3V8dTznz-STJb-ezuUq9/s1600/micro-krystal10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgREYKWYKdGOP9z2SBVRNmyRpL-VXEYI8rzWpY3UQWcTzWRfy8LOoSE1ipS_AvWXe6P5h5OYhmSAgMZwXiqEL73t320A0uoolS0l2t-Ue2JIzockllllqjJ0F6f3V8dTznz-STJb-ezuUq9/s640/micro-krystal10.jpg" width="498" /></a></div>
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It's not quite glue time. But let's talk glues. Right now my favorite for glass work is Microscale's <a href="http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-9">Micro Kristal Klear</a>. I have tried (I think) all of them out there--<a href="http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/testors/adhesive/cement/">Testor's</a> glass glue, Testor's stinky red, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5YjxbGO-ak">watch crystal glue</a>, epoxy, Elmer's. etc. Even CA, which of course you can't use because the fumes turn the clear glass white (learned that one the hard way). In fact when you are working with any plastic glass, anywhere in the room, don't even squeeze a drop of CA out of the tube. The fumes can ruin the glass (as well as you brain!) so stay away!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNWjcJDBMXxx-Q4VgxyWts66vDvw9TJipNmzFziVkO7z41a7tJJ2-QXnIUU0cu7yYk5UjvLPO3rbxeCPJomh__SEiVlsj-QWjiA1snRd569HbMXxA4hrf336qpIiH7Qxxn4HRdqkqi0u_j/s1600/tape09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNWjcJDBMXxx-Q4VgxyWts66vDvw9TJipNmzFziVkO7z41a7tJJ2-QXnIUU0cu7yYk5UjvLPO3rbxeCPJomh__SEiVlsj-QWjiA1snRd569HbMXxA4hrf336qpIiH7Qxxn4HRdqkqi0u_j/s640/tape09.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Thank goodness, it's still almost time to glue, but not quite. Get some <a href="https://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Partnership_Showcase/Home/Product/Page/Information/?PC_Z7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20G345000000_nid=MR622V9WJTbeBRRZ6M6JBJgl">3M clear scotch tape</a> and a dispenser, get some tape, and stick it on and off your pant's leg a few times. You want it to be tacky, but not too tacky.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqD95scIAG_2qr5KVlZXmjPWbPFs16sQ_SPqzz-pcrMV8IH40oGKRmX171Rja9R39hOmoAvlR5ResKSQdQYqR8Lr_jrvbn5dgKu5QSZZr-NExc0F60ufN9eyMlp81vTVr_JFUhB_z-7NwJ/s1600/glass-w-glue12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqD95scIAG_2qr5KVlZXmjPWbPFs16sQ_SPqzz-pcrMV8IH40oGKRmX171Rja9R39hOmoAvlR5ResKSQdQYqR8Lr_jrvbn5dgKu5QSZZr-NExc0F60ufN9eyMlp81vTVr_JFUhB_z-7NwJ/s640/glass-w-glue12.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's the trick. Tape the glass into place, make sure it looks OK, then with a toothpick, dab some of the MKK in place. Just a bit. Let it dry, and then remove a piece of tape, then put down some more glue. Repeat until the window is secure (in this case, the quarter pane) and all tape has been removed. Yes, this takes a lot of time, especially when you have a lot of glass to glue in, and yes, you have to be very patient. And yes, if the tape is too sticky you can pull the entire glass out. It takes practice.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP8hAAEjnQSJXC17izgvzBP5fJUeTRWq4SdxH4S-ilbvmPfHCG2ZJcbFY4l3RWFo5hN_PVHdziNdPmMWpINlSv9tMdm8nxXxaIVuBTT7fOWI8WsyF3FxWW3gzHKwgjjTrYdMjtnVfxgQMS/s1600/windshield20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP8hAAEjnQSJXC17izgvzBP5fJUeTRWq4SdxH4S-ilbvmPfHCG2ZJcbFY4l3RWFo5hN_PVHdziNdPmMWpINlSv9tMdm8nxXxaIVuBTT7fOWI8WsyF3FxWW3gzHKwgjjTrYdMjtnVfxgQMS/s640/windshield20.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The windshield going in after the quarter pane is dry. It's a rare windshield that goes in without a lot of tape, and a fair amount of fear and loathing. Best to just set some glue and then walk away for a few hours.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjuuysXBtLtoxvGustL_9h_3FRxL6yDmci4TJ_DiD_Pp89RuK_FCTW74CCEYCfOCS0SV6P2NmLFaY3PyFnFGXhs7ocs2U9wywDNnL6P-Qmoa6EovBj0Lp3ntza0E4bf88FnkberSYrbvld/s1600/tamiya-thinner519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjuuysXBtLtoxvGustL_9h_3FRxL6yDmci4TJ_DiD_Pp89RuK_FCTW74CCEYCfOCS0SV6P2NmLFaY3PyFnFGXhs7ocs2U9wywDNnL6P-Qmoa6EovBj0Lp3ntza0E4bf88FnkberSYrbvld/s640/tamiya-thinner519.jpg" width="584" /></a></div>
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One of the best things about MKK is that until it is completely dry, which means maybe 24 hours, you can clean it and thin it with <a href="http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/paints-finishes-60/finishing-supplies-62000/acryl-poly-thinner-x-20a-250ml-81040">Tamiya X-20A </a>thinner. So if you do make a mess, you can fix things. Of course, if you are applying X20A as a cleaning agent over a surface painted with Acrylic, the acrylic paint might come off as well, exposing the plastic beneath. Bummer. Doesn't model making suck?</div>
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<br />Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-39052737392350967152015-08-15T14:06:00.005-07:002015-08-15T14:08:57.899-07:0066 El Camino: Space Normal Speed<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>I remain indolent </b>about building a big project, turning a poorly tooled <a href="http://www.round2models.com/models/amt/chevelle-convertible">AMT 69 Chevelle </a>into something that is respectable. Instead, I am spending a few minutes here and there, mostly before heading to the bus for work, on a newer tooled kit, a <a href="http://www.revell.com/model-kits/cars/85-2045.html#.Vc-pmbcYJX4">Revell 66 El Camino,</a> and building it pretty much box stock. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhfcRArCnWDL5207v7Tccxd-vyrEzeO-Yww5_4lygJprE-jIOO0TostEtooK1pcnOS-wd7GXG8fJUD6FoLNDnAQMXKnTA3Ps55WfajqdTZk_wvQZ_jn-jT1OuvtYT8RO-noTRcb78RwHUc/s1600/engine200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhfcRArCnWDL5207v7Tccxd-vyrEzeO-Yww5_4lygJprE-jIOO0TostEtooK1pcnOS-wd7GXG8fJUD6FoLNDnAQMXKnTA3Ps55WfajqdTZk_wvQZ_jn-jT1OuvtYT8RO-noTRcb78RwHUc/s640/engine200.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Imagine that! Box stock! But I am doing that more and more these days. Better zen than a challenge I guess. I used the original engine, there are no wheel flares to add, no silly metal toy axles to get rid of and no sinkmarks to putty over. This is very smooth sailing and so far has been a completely easy kit to put together. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG_9Z7iKB-ZEor3dixiff6hyphenhyphenzC-d53oiYuX2lUkXQztvEVe1QsQt6w8p-4TavN3JFRkq4LcTuY-6Cl5HsT3WoP9EEI3WyA9kiPKF4Mb6fN9UpyvRIpl727G00685NFWRvIfeL2cmotXTic/s1600/interior99.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG_9Z7iKB-ZEor3dixiff6hyphenhyphenzC-d53oiYuX2lUkXQztvEVe1QsQt6w8p-4TavN3JFRkq4LcTuY-6Cl5HsT3WoP9EEI3WyA9kiPKF4Mb6fN9UpyvRIpl727G00685NFWRvIfeL2cmotXTic/s640/interior99.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
I am using all my usual tools and paint. Go through previous posts and you'll see 'em. The only new thing I am trying so far is something I read in a doll house enthusiasm hobby site (sorry lost the link): faintly dust flat grey primer onto "carpeted" floorboards to add depth. What the hell, if it works for dollhouse makers, what about for us car model builders? Spray away! When I first did this I thought it was going to look terrible but I am happy to say in extreme moderation it adds realism and fools the eye into thinking you're looking at carpet. I was surprised!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUWO2l2dviqudpnXGBl3OD040rhGcpUWcY7fsNiH5mwGiGHfGJnsrvIrBqtDp2NVQ5qhBlrR4z_OTs_02ssr5sgmKnhaNqWG3sbP5fGjjx_oHo2PqmUrKMRJoVVx3ddXFa54BA1fKBVm6E/s1600/top-no-foil-95.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUWO2l2dviqudpnXGBl3OD040rhGcpUWcY7fsNiH5mwGiGHfGJnsrvIrBqtDp2NVQ5qhBlrR4z_OTs_02ssr5sgmKnhaNqWG3sbP5fGjjx_oHo2PqmUrKMRJoVVx3ddXFa54BA1fKBVm6E/s640/top-no-foil-95.jpg" width="640" /></a> </div>
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The body was painted with <a href="http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/testors/lacquer-paint/lacquer-sprays/">Testors One Coat Lacquer</a> Maroon and One Coat clear, 2 coats each, and polished with the same stuff I always use. Airbrush? We don't need no stinking airbrush!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY8lddKJfh9HBRd2Qva-F1ZpukXBoOqyRs_Yxo_Auscm7WL4yX1WmGXmG23ilabeEMP5lou0ixnh8R5pOmtTM-Ga13mdwhjobecXyNZfjGMV-RBVuUOtuvO92UxrfR94N_qoDOOK2Y-8yK/s1600/top5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="580" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY8lddKJfh9HBRd2Qva-F1ZpukXBoOqyRs_Yxo_Auscm7WL4yX1WmGXmG23ilabeEMP5lou0ixnh8R5pOmtTM-Ga13mdwhjobecXyNZfjGMV-RBVuUOtuvO92UxrfR94N_qoDOOK2Y-8yK/s640/top5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
I was dreading the foil part of the project as always. Applying <a href="http://www.bare-metal.com/">BMF</a> is frustrating, difficult, and not at all satisfying. I tried using tin foil (details from <a href="http://modelcarbuilder.blogspot.com/2015/07/aside-look-ma-no-bmf.html">last time)</a> but I couldn't get it to stick to the flat surfaces, such as on the deck lid so it was back to BMF.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiZW6qbnm8XKiKqTtDBE1jed_epCAFvk_ZQbXBwaxyJRHgpI8hah1dyFIVF7ThI68cNsUrDsM-IH05ITbduZwLyQMsfEXI-L0V6x1mY9Y5hgV5fSkDchDNkMQRJoEtnH7rQwH1YvuglXgT/s1600/topfront03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiZW6qbnm8XKiKqTtDBE1jed_epCAFvk_ZQbXBwaxyJRHgpI8hah1dyFIVF7ThI68cNsUrDsM-IH05ITbduZwLyQMsfEXI-L0V6x1mY9Y5hgV5fSkDchDNkMQRJoEtnH7rQwH1YvuglXgT/s640/topfront03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
I don't know if there is a fortune to be made, but if someone could invent a better BMF, one that didn't stick to everything you didn't want it to stick to, but stuck where you did want it to stick, you'd at least make some model builders happy (I know there aren't that many of us). As it is the stuff drives me crazy. Lately I find myself seeking out builds that don't need it!<br />
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<br />Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-88528035482402049882015-07-18T13:17:00.002-07:002015-07-18T13:22:01.953-07:00Aside: Look Ma! No BMF!<b>After going through some old emails,</b> I realized I have not been building models again "for a few years now". To my amazement, it's been more like 10 years! You'd think I'd be a bit better craftsman after 10 years working on a hobby like this off and on. Oh well. What you gonna do?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCD4Nu1BpqPfjvPMy8ppnvBEOMMITvGuPgkrv51C6DU0c7EQd1TfSY6E6foJvHcN-NS2uTYypqyxAhxrDHOMDaio4nq2hMtAhudd6H4XzNnLba1PGHTZx7CFxzUMHCbWeS_ve2IwXVqT5k/s1600/DSC_0183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCD4Nu1BpqPfjvPMy8ppnvBEOMMITvGuPgkrv51C6DU0c7EQd1TfSY6E6foJvHcN-NS2uTYypqyxAhxrDHOMDaio4nq2hMtAhudd6H4XzNnLba1PGHTZx7CFxzUMHCbWeS_ve2IwXVqT5k/s640/DSC_0183.jpg" width="326" /></a></div>
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So for the 69 Chevelle project I am looking for an alternative to Bare Metal Foil. Mostly used for replicating chrome trim, I have found BMF almost ridiculously hard to get really good results with. I don't want to spend a ton of time getting the <a href="http://modelcarbuilder.blogspot.com/2015/03/69-chevelle-convertible-body-work-part.html">1:25 Chevelle</a> as good as I can just to have Bare Metal Foil make it look crappy. <br />
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In going through Youtubes I saw one guy who was using the product above as an alternative. This from <a href="http://www.microscale.com/">Microscale</a>, same guys who make one of my favorites: Micro Krystal Klear.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFiJUh-SZvqltimMroAZ8WrSQMy2SvL9kKwAyZQG8vM6LSoNjZNnpu1vwuEv8FpEpISX6tNtAwBPFqNfmH9iU_75OvleFWNdGSqX2KOzS-fItyIS5CAe8UxRHZjjPlbfOsHyiFRTPuzvv/s1600/foil5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="568" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFiJUh-SZvqltimMroAZ8WrSQMy2SvL9kKwAyZQG8vM6LSoNjZNnpu1vwuEv8FpEpISX6tNtAwBPFqNfmH9iU_75OvleFWNdGSqX2KOzS-fItyIS5CAe8UxRHZjjPlbfOsHyiFRTPuzvv/s640/foil5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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How it works: you brush some of this glue on the back of household tin foil. Let it dry and get tacky. From there, cut out strips and basically use it the same way you'd use BMF: apply, burnish, and cut.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrfIlIC5rmxQLapfTr4KRwtv33QL3cqX10AaH-qOoDELVyfQ7LMOuHyYDzAjD70_53UR1QpEXb5o74UVkoGBDfjnIP39MV5ikpK75bhO5Co0R5bU4eGcKrV7s1_oP8ird0qLr6-rYn-W18/s1600/jagged191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrfIlIC5rmxQLapfTr4KRwtv33QL3cqX10AaH-qOoDELVyfQ7LMOuHyYDzAjD70_53UR1QpEXb5o74UVkoGBDfjnIP39MV5ikpK75bhO5Co0R5bU4eGcKrV7s1_oP8ird0qLr6-rYn-W18/s640/jagged191.jpg" width="604" /></a></div>
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So how does it rate? Well, to me, tin foil looks and feels a bit different than BMF. Tin foil is thicker and heavier than BMF, which makes it more durable, and I can burnish it with more gusto without tearing. On the other hand, even with a brand new #10 blade, I found getting straight cuts elusive, as you see above; I imagine this is the downside of it being thicker and more durable: the thickness makes it harder to cut.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Yg236EgMYBOnt2MFB3omxwLi8pAJQeTPJwI2AKiUxxcqimCnI8c7CvvtyttlQA-C2mTHgvWkoBTiCz37j_k2jAV3xr4sqf9R8DmR5mPASMFyKOjYZf_8Zx1hTO94IYUphAXTbNn_DIhk/s1600/Apillar193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Yg236EgMYBOnt2MFB3omxwLi8pAJQeTPJwI2AKiUxxcqimCnI8c7CvvtyttlQA-C2mTHgvWkoBTiCz37j_k2jAV3xr4sqf9R8DmR5mPASMFyKOjYZf_8Zx1hTO94IYUphAXTbNn_DIhk/s640/Apillar193.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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However, things like A pillars with 2 trim strips came out a bit better (I guess). Being able to control how much adhesive is applied to a given piece of trim was a bonus. and the made it easier to get really thin trim pieces to stay put, which is a problem I've always had with BMF.<br />
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So overall, this is an "I don't know." Tin foil and glue is definitely cheaper than BMF, and you don't have to peel tin foil off paper backing every time you want to use a bit. Or worry about it going bad (which BMF does after a few months). But overall, I just don't know. I think I have to keep looking.<br />
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<br />Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-10008889765780549782015-06-27T11:06:00.001-07:002015-06-27T11:13:11.675-07:0069 Chevy Chevelle: The Thrill of the GrilleFrom two blogs ago: Still (!!) trying to sort out what parts I am going to use for an <b>AMT 69 Chevelle Convertible</b> project. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkpgAz6WbKD4WCYfDbmlsu0Eg9v2KSm9Bgy7qBlVfHTXe97lmm1Hs1xYvqWJ_qSBJfB_URB2cc2Gw_GcPD3PK96xMwtrfljwxDkzaffTBFQA54UCBb_ys3NWVA0vrvJEJKRH9V_bIM-UQj/s1600/boxart422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkpgAz6WbKD4WCYfDbmlsu0Eg9v2KSm9Bgy7qBlVfHTXe97lmm1Hs1xYvqWJ_qSBJfB_URB2cc2Gw_GcPD3PK96xMwtrfljwxDkzaffTBFQA54UCBb_ys3NWVA0vrvJEJKRH9V_bIM-UQj/s640/boxart422.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The original tooling, from the mid-70's, left a lot to be desired, so I am trying to round up parts from other kits (commonly called "Kitbashing" in the hobby, but you already know that?) to save a lot of scratch building work.<br />
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I was discussing this build with one of my brother's car buddies. These guys are mostly fanatics and also scratch their head wondering why I build models when 1:1 cars get the chicks (although some of these guys are pretty hard up!) Anyway: these guys know every bolt ever put on any car, the size, the thread pattern, who made the bolt, where it was cast for the European version of the bolt, yes, really, and have the time to argue about it. <br />
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Anyway: One of them heard I was having trouble with the grille of this build (I am, what AMT tooled is really crappy) and suggested trying a 66 El Camino grille instead which "looks about the same".<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFB2kwiJo43b65pgLhFggbr3hb3C4xcXuZ15jIXJzdxi-ukGE-9nEE1fd3yPjy_-63FKdQxXU-ylwh_U_MIDqRreIbkiR4BgST8XZNdtqMEYHEi5O3R5c14Ez7NeZF4heq6oy5-bsftdA_/s1600/66chevelle-box269.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFB2kwiJo43b65pgLhFggbr3hb3C4xcXuZ15jIXJzdxi-ukGE-9nEE1fd3yPjy_-63FKdQxXU-ylwh_U_MIDqRreIbkiR4BgST8XZNdtqMEYHEi5O3R5c14Ez7NeZF4heq6oy5-bsftdA_/s640/66chevelle-box269.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So I bought a Revell 66 El Camino at the LHS ("local hobby shop", another model building term you already know?) and to the guy's credit, there is some overlap. The 66 has the right "grille ears" that are sadly lacking on the AMT tooling, however the headlight bezel shape isn't right. But I can see what he's talking about.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCvBQz784GWTC6LVOM-SWeMl2qjLPCz6mks-kzEVmxEPnMi8nqHyI-dptoy_z8JoenrUGV1y0JAjEduh7KGnsBMgzmB90wD5ae-gNLHydMyZuVjWRXBSxqIgZkuFM7ap4MoJQg1zhGtupJ/s1600/twogrilles171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="542" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCvBQz784GWTC6LVOM-SWeMl2qjLPCz6mks-kzEVmxEPnMi8nqHyI-dptoy_z8JoenrUGV1y0JAjEduh7KGnsBMgzmB90wD5ae-gNLHydMyZuVjWRXBSxqIgZkuFM7ap4MoJQg1zhGtupJ/s640/twogrilles171.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The top grille is the 66, so you can see the from the differences vs. the 69 AMT grille. Also note how much better the casting is on the 66 (which is a newer tooling!) And no "chrome headlights"!!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi39UyPDgIUNMAAp25n6eRhmxd-2QFEqqUmkA-8FwvxBBgK-NXmEcGC1ggD2y8lBus-AqgqDBK-cQja98NUlnWyVQNMoTgSEKuk4v5QKSNy9p5sWdQrdoGgNmvDwEjPSPnd0o8oXBQoQoM6/s1600/modelhaus74.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi39UyPDgIUNMAAp25n6eRhmxd-2QFEqqUmkA-8FwvxBBgK-NXmEcGC1ggD2y8lBus-AqgqDBK-cQja98NUlnWyVQNMoTgSEKuk4v5QKSNy9p5sWdQrdoGgNmvDwEjPSPnd0o8oXBQoQoM6/s640/modelhaus74.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Not being done dropping money on this project, I got another 69 grille from "<a href="http://www.modelhaus.com/">The Modelhaus</a>". They sell castings of old promo kit parts and do nice work; the parts are beautiful. I read online that the Modelhaus parts are somewhat better than the AMT provided parts, and indeed, this grille does have cutouts for the turn signal section, and the chrome quality is much better, which may be helpful.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8GJWn5lbdla_SVbg_K184eJ7G1H_UCxQIdml1c2cAoQM6zpiIx1Xlq5vBeTBi9JJUYwFe1pspcV3-3XFeWYxwY4GBpg9V7uXjFGImV4sSdNAChkMTtzndQF1oK9fnZJX7vv6Ie1PAiI-e/s1600/grille_ears79.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8GJWn5lbdla_SVbg_K184eJ7G1H_UCxQIdml1c2cAoQM6zpiIx1Xlq5vBeTBi9JJUYwFe1pspcV3-3XFeWYxwY4GBpg9V7uXjFGImV4sSdNAChkMTtzndQF1oK9fnZJX7vv6Ie1PAiI-e/s640/grille_ears79.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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What's missing from both 69 grilles (AMT and Modelhaus) are the characteristic "grille ears" you see here--this from the 66 El Camino. It will really bug me if my build doesn't have this flair from the 1:1 69. I guess I could strip and chop up this grille, strip and chop up the AMT, fuse them, and try to re-chrome-plate the whole thing, but is it worth it???<br />
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That's what I've been asking myself lately: for this whole 69 project: is it worth it? It's not the money I am dumping into this project, although I've already dumped a bit; it's the time. How much work do I really want to put into this and why? And when I am done, and proud of myself (if I ever finish) what happens when Revell announces their own retooled 69 Chevelle that kicks my build's butt?<br />
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Not sure. Such is the demented life of a model car builder. I think i am going to sit on this project--it may go on hold for a bit, like the Corvette Gasser or the bubbletop Chevy. Strangely i don't have a huge problem with this.Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-42456967728685506372015-05-22T07:34:00.000-07:002015-05-22T07:34:29.261-07:0069 Olds 442--Speed Kills!OK time to <b>call it quits</b>. From last time: I am trying to build this AMT 69 olds <a href="http://modelcarbuilder.blogspot.com/2015/04/aside-again-69-olds-60-minute-interior.html">as fast as I can</a> and it shows.<br />
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The 69 olds is done and it's time to end it. What was supposed to be a one evening build became a series of evenings trying to undo what I screwed up because I rushed. I am learning, with model building, and I imagine any craft, you can work at a good pace, but at times you can overdo it.<br />
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This speed build proves what the Supremes, and not Phil Collins, said. I won't quote it here.<br />
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Thing is! This is actually a pretty nifty little kit. The foil work is challenging, but if done well you could have a pretty good looking build. I rushed through the foil, the paint, the interior....<br />
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Who knows, I might build it again sometime....<br />
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Next time, more patience! Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-59045446242288054212015-05-17T18:55:00.001-07:002015-05-17T19:01:34.199-07:0060 Olds Speed Build--NOT!<b>Because I am too lazy to put in the hard work on the 69 Chevelle convertible</b>, I've been biding my time on a quick and easy build. Sort of. Turns out, it's not been quick, and it's not been easy. In fact, it's become a real pain!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUVDbzkArIATuTgpRDCnei5BkTvPWUalxbnH4K58oNv6nyTvRYPZJe7eIE7Hqk0b4Y9X1et5EyEcznLxLGq-RbC7ZJjje8bLI3LxfKzUirQsCKbC9595fTwN-Nc68cPIlDRpqIskSXIlr8/s1600/oldsbox0146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUVDbzkArIATuTgpRDCnei5BkTvPWUalxbnH4K58oNv6nyTvRYPZJe7eIE7Hqk0b4Y9X1et5EyEcznLxLGq-RbC7ZJjje8bLI3LxfKzUirQsCKbC9595fTwN-Nc68cPIlDRpqIskSXIlr8/s640/oldsbox0146.jpg" width="640" /></a>So here it is: the AMT/Ertl 69 Olds 4-4-2, built as a curbside. I am stealing suspension and engine compartment parts for the Chevelle, but I have the body and trim left over. Let's build that up fast! I applied a <a href="http://modelcarbuilder.blogspot.com/2015/04/aside-69-amt-old-4-4-2-20-minute-paint.html">super quick paint</a> job, and also a <a href="http://modelcarbuilder.blogspot.com/2015/04/aside-again-69-olds-60-minute-interior.html">super quick interior mask</a>. So I just need to glue it all together. Well, that's what I thought anyway!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl7Nt9-ae65iORrG8OSVFIDTWfW-Jj_v6-9R4PZpZlI-UGB_HLDgrs-xaIrGSHtiY0YOHfXbWGuPAjqJnQHxSMNL4rI6EE7FmHiId96I6eCjH1cqmsRlGigxNQYbWFr5EOWVCgkCr73G09/s1600/badglass2488.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl7Nt9-ae65iORrG8OSVFIDTWfW-Jj_v6-9R4PZpZlI-UGB_HLDgrs-xaIrGSHtiY0YOHfXbWGuPAjqJnQHxSMNL4rI6EE7FmHiId96I6eCjH1cqmsRlGigxNQYbWFr5EOWVCgkCr73G09/s640/badglass2488.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The problems began when I tried to glue in the windshield. I didn't test fit it, this is "modern" tooling I figure, and the AMT guys got it right, right? Not!! The windshield is about 3-4 scale inches short in the vertical, so I couldn't get it to sit right.<br />
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That's not the end of world; I crafted a new windshield using clear plastic and glued it in using 5 minute clear epoxy. But here's where things started to go very, very wrong.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzOAFdEjRDD7KaJ6Fv_u7WmODYr3aYAEo78hC2lRN5VuavbxFKiUbQqQVm5DjhRLM397bbQTge6vWW6A8z0Cs-aRYqF6YwfFPkCeS8t72UtOj7RUL7U1ZeiGlT2SSOWDmPEBid15qkhzoA/s1600/bad-a-pillar-2498.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzOAFdEjRDD7KaJ6Fv_u7WmODYr3aYAEo78hC2lRN5VuavbxFKiUbQqQVm5DjhRLM397bbQTge6vWW6A8z0Cs-aRYqF6YwfFPkCeS8t72UtOj7RUL7U1ZeiGlT2SSOWDmPEBid15qkhzoA/s640/bad-a-pillar-2498.jpg" width="612" /></a><br />
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In the process of wrestling out the old glass and putting in the new I broke the A pillar on the drivers side, which wiped out the bare metal foil, leaving what you see here: it looks like an evil mouse took a rodent-sized baseball bat to the A-pillar and beat the hell out of it. I have no idea what to do here; since this is a speed build (or was) I don't want to rip everything out and start over. I hate to say it but I might have to let this one go. Good to face down the obsessive compulsive disorder every now and then right? <br />
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While I was recovering from<b> the disaster of the broken A-pillar</b> I thought I'd have some fun with the decal stripes, and for the rear, it went on pretty fine.<br />
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The rear decals got some <a href="http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-1">Microscale Micro Set.</a> As you know if you've followed this blog: This stuff make any decal look a lot more realistic since it sort of "melts" the decal into the paint. <br />
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But for the front I used some <a href="http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=ec882c4d0608e194afe492fddd4968b0&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=MI-2&Category_Code=FINPROD">Micro Sol</a> as well, which is really for wrestling decals into tough spots, like around rounded corners. I didn't need to use this but I did, and it ruined the front decals, turning them into a wrinkled, soggy mess, so I removed them. No picture taken. I was too upset with myself.<br />
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So what should have taken a few minutes has now turned into several evenings of fear and loathing. In the meantime the Chevelle project is languishing. I am really not sure what to do next. This Olds model will probably get finished soon but then end up in the garbage. Lesson learned: I need to test fit, even with a speed build. Don't foil until I'm sure everything is going to fit. Also, don't use Micro Sol unless you have to!Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-85136223529921103382015-04-26T10:43:00.004-07:002015-04-26T14:06:23.196-07:00Aside Again: 69 Olds--60 minute Interior including Mask!Still taking a break from the <a href="http://modelcarbuilder.blogspot.com/2015/03/69-chevelle-convertible-vintage-build.html">69 Chevelle</a>--I don't know, it might just be <b>too much work</b>. For that project I Ebayed a <a href="http://modelcarbuilder.blogspot.com/2015/04/aside-69-amt-old-4-4-2-20-minute-paint.html">69 Olds</a> to steal engine and chassis components for the Chevelle. What to do with the left over parts? From last time--SPEED BUILD!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm11PvqKY6zYyp-nU1RrriWBVQuAUF22MJXAcGzVrbwSZ-aN8LHG0r3vMCM6kIyjVD-SJRk-UEfVRRHhojPQp7EpoKNv4CWMBJKzit_pj3TUVm1nXoljnHnFzB-XBbD5sf3AFhbI_wlgfm/s1600/oldsbox0146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm11PvqKY6zYyp-nU1RrriWBVQuAUF22MJXAcGzVrbwSZ-aN8LHG0r3vMCM6kIyjVD-SJRk-UEfVRRHhojPQp7EpoKNv4CWMBJKzit_pj3TUVm1nXoljnHnFzB-XBbD5sf3AFhbI_wlgfm/s1600/oldsbox0146.jpg" height="436" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you've followed this blog at all, you've seen it too many times: I tend to take a really long time for my "serious" builds, sometimes a year or more. I don't know what is more noteworthy, that the damn things take so long, or, for the time they take, they don't come out better than they do! OK, to keep my sanity, I am interspersing side projects where I build things as fast as I can, and building up the "Olds Leftovers" is becoming one of them.<br />
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Last time I painted the body in 15 minutes, not including a tiny bit of drying time, but including time to polish. Not bad eh? This time it's on the the interior. How fast is too fast?<br />
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Just to make it challenging, I didn't glue it all together and paint it matte black. That would be too easy! I tried to mask it too!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqK8XH5QFzAJibRRTbE2ArUPlGfHnB9YlpskgVZ1ScrvqsQPu1C8pjnCrQ76e9qRL1MptMybr7BqhkkDQrRFpmTPDpmVOD8wTofB7doexSeNA9ozCz5vvZsUSidgHn2c8Y4ezc3LMn1za5/s1600/rear-seat-w-mask-2447.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqK8XH5QFzAJibRRTbE2ArUPlGfHnB9YlpskgVZ1ScrvqsQPu1C8pjnCrQ76e9qRL1MptMybr7BqhkkDQrRFpmTPDpmVOD8wTofB7doexSeNA9ozCz5vvZsUSidgHn2c8Y4ezc3LMn1za5/s1600/rear-seat-w-mask-2447.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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For the mask I used <a href="http://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html">bare metal foil</a>, which turned out to be a pain, not because it was that hard to get it on or trim it, but that it was hard to remove it! I used liquid mask for the right angles (paint always flows in there otherwise) and shot it with a quick coat of Testors One Coat Clear to try to seal the masks. I seriously doubt any of it was dry when I shot it with Tamiya Matte Black, but it all stuck; I got lucky! So: The whole interior build, including dash detailing and whatnot, took
about 60 minutes. I used quick dry lacquers, so as not to have to wait
around for things to dry, and worked on one thing (quickly!) while
another thing was drying. I am also finding myself using sharpies more
and more, as those pens (I use ink Sharpies, not paint pen Sharpies), cover bare
plastic OK and there is almost no dry time, and obviously no brushes to
clean up. <br />
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<br />Here's how it all came out: well, OK I guess. In my photos, as always, you see no retouches or attempts to pretty things up, and with speed builds, what you see is what you get. The red paint isn't red paint at all, it's red sharpie, applied to save time.<br />
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I dunno, it's looking damn ratty to me, but I will dust it off and maybe clean it up a bit. Since it's going into a fastback, on the shelf of my kitchen, where it's dark, it will probably be just fine. <br />
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A new tool for this speed build thing: for cutting Bare Metal Foil, a really good modeler named "Dr Cranky" suggests on his youtube: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52L1RJ6kM-E">using surgical blades vs. Xacto #11's</a>. I tried that for the cutting the interior mask (as well as the body BMF--next time?) and liked it very much. Go Dr Cranky!Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-17363811857310954622015-04-03T15:39:00.000-07:002015-04-03T15:55:32.790-07:00Aside: 69 AMT Olds 4-4-2: the 20 Minute Paint Job--including Polish!From last time--it looks like the <a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span id="goog_2079943658"></span>69 Chevelle Convertible<span id="goog_2079943659"></span></a> is going to take a long time to build! So I was thinking, how can I make a part of this go faster? How about the paint? How fast can I do that?<br />
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I purchased this AMT Olds 4-4-2 to steal chassis and engine compartment bits for the Chevelle (more about that next time?). That means I have a leftover body. I got to thinking: can I paint this leftover in 15-20 minutes time (including prep, paint, and polish), and not have it look completely horror show? Why??? Why not?<br />
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Let's get started! I took about 5 minutes prepping the body, which mostly involved sanding off some mold lines with 600 grit wet and dry, then going over it very quickly with 2000 grit. </div>
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Next, time to prime: OmniPak MasterBlend is the primer to use. It dries in about a minute and I have never seen it barf with any color coats I choose. There are lots of primers for plastic model building out there, but I think this one is the best.<br />
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After misting on a coat, waited a minute and misted on another. </div>
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Next, on to color coat: Duplicolor Perfect Match is easy to use, can be found in any old car parts store, and for rattle can paint, goes on nice and smooth, I think. So right after the primer was dry to the touch (maybe 2 minutes?) I put on 3 light color coats, waiting a minute between each coat. Normally I'd let the color coat dry and sand, but this is speed-painting, and we are already about 10 minutes in! So forget the sanding. I went crazy with <i>Una Capa Laca </i>clear. 2 very heavy coats, dumping it on until the paint looked like it was going to run. I waited about one minute between coats. Yes the color coat was still wet when I capa laca'd. Sorry!</div>
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I let it dry for about 4 hours. I won't count that time I guess, I ran some errands and took a nap, so that doesn't count right? After the body was pretty dry, I quickly (!!) sanded with 2000 grit wet and dry (wet), then followed with Megular's 7, Tamiya Polish "Finish", and Novus 2 and 1. These are all polishes I have used before, just never this fast. I mean I barely applied each, got the paint and cloth to go squeak-squeak and moved on.</div>
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So how did it come out? Really, OK I think! You can see here, there is a bit of wavy gravy in the trunk but overall, for 20 minutes total work it is not horror show.</div>
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I think with 15 more minutes polishing (no reason I have to say I am done, but I could just say I am) and some foil, decals, and other finishing steps, this isn't going to look too bad.</div>
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The "shine" isn't all that bad either. It's a bit cloudy and not as deep as I'd like. I figure I should have at least waited for the color coat to dry! But again, this is 20 minutes total work. Yes, 2 part Polyurethane is going to look better, but I can't even get that paint mixed and ready to shoot in 20 minutes. Rattle cans rule!</div>
Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-26913711519324956102015-03-28T11:33:00.000-07:002015-03-28T11:33:02.283-07:0069 Chevelle Convertible--Body Work, Part IIStill working on an <b>AMT 1:25 69 Chevelle convertible</b>. From last time: this is something I built when I was a kid (well that's how I remember it anyway). The amount of work to fix the obvious "mistakes' in the tooling is more involved than I thought!<div>
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You can see the box-stock body on the left. My work, so far, is on the right. Ah! The rocker panels! AMT ker-blew it on this one. To get a "meaner" 69 look, I cut the rocker panels off the body and re-glued them at a more abrupt angle, so they are about 10 degrees from perpendicular; the stock AMT tooling is a rounded 30 degrees and looks, to my eyes, too "feminine". Using square styrene strip and dabbing on a lot of glue has gone into trying to fix this (so far!).<br />
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The fender flares are done, well almost, they stick out much further than the box-stock flares, a subtle change that (I think) adds a bit more realism. </div>
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The putty went on the doors this morning and putty presents pain! Painful but necessary: the bottom of the doors should fade gracefully into an abrupt "jump" to the rocker panels; it's one of the things about the 1:1 '69 I really like. </div>
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Putty presents problems as well as pain: sanding this smooth without damaging the fender flares, how will I do that? </div>
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Never stop thinking about trim! HaHa! I haven't test fitted the rear taillight/bumper assembly. To my eyes the stock bumper assembly<b> </b>looks so totally hella butt wrong compared to the 1:1 car that I have <i>no idea </i>what I will do; I may have to cut the rear bumper apart and scratch build the taillight housings. </div>
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OK to make things interesting I am trying a different putty for this project. I have never seen "Tamiya white putty" before, only "Basic" and "light sensitive". So here's what I used on the doors. Compared to "Basic" the putty is a bit more viscous and is indeed white. I like trying new things....</div>
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I test fit the front grille/bumper, and to my amazement, it fits pretty well, for an old AMT kit. But again, it's just plain <i>wrong</i>. The headlights are too small, to my eyes, the grille isn't tall or wide enough, and the assembly lacks the characteristic "grille ears" of the 69 Chevelle; again one of my favorite things about the 1:1 '69 Chevelle that AMT just plain left off. I am thinking I may have to de-chrome the bumper/grille, cut it up, and scratch build what's missing or needs resizing. This is an extremely visible part of the build. Can't wait!</div>
Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-41217659946217012532015-03-15T14:52:00.002-07:002015-03-15T14:52:55.226-07:0069 Chevy Chevelle Convertible--Body Work Part IFrom last time, <b>I am building a recently reissued 69 Chevelle Convertible</b> in 1:25 scale. Also from last time: the original tooling ain't much by today's standards, and at the very least, the body needs a lot of work.<br />
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Diving in! The first question: I bought 2 kits, which one should I use? I chose the one with more flash because the hood fit better, and a whacked out hood looks bad no matter how good the rest of the build is!<br />
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The front flares look all wrong; on one side of the body they are too small; on the other non-existent. I have never tried to add flares to a stock kit but I also know from other builds: just go for it. I am using styrene glue (Testor's stinky-red) to glue some plastic stock to boldy go where no AMT has gone before.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNNJZyTiVRV8xZr0cNHC9kFDTtUf3CoCW6SjxX1bRxJPJM526UQM8zfkDHwjOTfw6paKXhALEQzkV1ZsuYpECstImP8FOfr1F6zk_eEw0XOY-0hZLfLpeMRwjlnocLAeTbWFrDL8y80oCE/s1600/rearflare.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNNJZyTiVRV8xZr0cNHC9kFDTtUf3CoCW6SjxX1bRxJPJM526UQM8zfkDHwjOTfw6paKXhALEQzkV1ZsuYpECstImP8FOfr1F6zk_eEw0XOY-0hZLfLpeMRwjlnocLAeTbWFrDL8y80oCE/s1600/rearflare.jpg" height="446" width="640" /></a>I glue down a bit and let it dry, then I glue some more. The driver's side rear is cinched down but still needs quite a bit of shaping. I plan to sand and file and maybe shape with some Eurosoft, but I don't want to remove too much. This will be tricky!<br />
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The side trim looks like a 68; AMT must have not "fixed" this in 69 to save money. The area where the front of the body meets the front grille needs some reshaping as well. Generally in 69 the body lines became more "abrupt" so my focus is giving the body some of the sharp lines of the 1:1 69.<br />
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I shaved off some of the old mold lines with a Dremel tool and glued more styrene flat stock over. It's going to take a lot of sanding to get this to look right.<br />
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Overall: as I thought this will be a whole lot of work and I was right! I am going to run along now and order some putty online; I am going to need it. <br />
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<br />Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-72633364051225075072015-03-03T16:57:00.002-08:002015-04-03T15:59:30.472-07:0069 Chevelle Convertible--Vintage Build, Sort of!<b>If you've followed this blog at all:</b> I get nostalgic about making models. For me this hobby is all about simpler times, in my Central Valley basement, with my brothers, the AM radio playing Top 40. <br />
There were bullies on every corner, sure, there was endless racism and Nixon and the Vietnam war, which as a sheltered 7 year old didn't mean much. The principal of my grade school was probably a fascist but I guess I'll never know that either. Time tends to heal all wounds. <br />
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For me model making is about going back there, to the good times. And not just to the good times, but to the cool kits. Those old kits made my brothers and me happy, and as soon as we had some lawn mowing money we rode our bikes to the 5 and dime and we got the latest AMT or MPC thing. <br />
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OK fast forward 45 years. With the Internet, you can still get pretty much any kit, but for rare vintage ones, you will have to pay. In the spirit of time travel back to the early Seventies, I have purchased and even built a few vintage kits like an MPC Toyota GT2000. It can be frustrating: expensive to buy, lacking in detail compared to modern kits that are designed and tooled with computers. And no spares if I screw something up!<br />
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OK about this next build, an <b>AMT 1:25 1969 Chevelle convertible</b>. It's a vintage kit, gone for decades, but recently reissued by Round 2. (About Round 2: These guys must be going through endless cellars in corporate Michigan and Indiana and finding old injection molding tooling from the Sixties, polishing the molds, sending them off to China, getting a bunch of cheapo styrene molded parts back, and lovingly packing them in cool vintage cardboard artwork and plastic baggies. The global economy at work! )<br />
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The AMT 69 Chevelle Convertible lists in Coulter and Shelton's<i> Directory of Model Car Kits </i>as last issued in 1977 and having a street value of $95. After some more research--those guys are right, 77 is when this kit was originally released, so 8 years or so after the 1:1 car's debut. I went on eBay and couldn't find a Chevelle convertible kit from 1977 available at any price. So the original 69 Chevelle from AMT is a rare bird, I figure. Or was.<br />
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Due to the hard work from these Round 2 guys, this rare bird isn't rare any longer, and I got the convertible 1:25 kit for $20 on Ebay. Go <a href="http://www.round2models.com/">Round 2</a>! You guys rule!<br />
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(Actually from lessons learned on the <a href="http://modelcarbuilder.blogspot.com/2012/10/finally-with-mpc-toyota-2000-gt-vintage.html">Toyota vintage build</a>, I bought 2!)<br />
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OK that's where the good news about the AMT 69 Chevelle convertible ends.<br />
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The bad news is that back in the 70's plastic model kits had serious issues and they still have serious issues. I don't imagine the Round 2 folks have $750K (? some big number here?) to tool up a new version of an old kit, and that's not what they are about regardless, so it seems. To understand why old AMT is really, well, old AMT, it's time for the way back machine. This was the "golden age of model building". Back then we didn't play video games, or watch Netflix streaming, or text our friends. We saved our lunch money, we built models, we painted bodies with 20 cent brushes, and if something didn't fit, well, it was good enough to show your parents and maybe get a 2nd place at the local hobby shop model contest. It was good enough for us, and therefore it was good enough for AMT. AMT and MPC were <i>boss</i>!<br />
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Now, as an adult with an obsessive need to get every damn thing right, vintage tooling issues present an endless list of problems to solve. Let's start with the interior! Modern kits have interiors that come in pieces, making them easier to mask and paint, but for these oldies, the interior is almost always a tub. The 69 Chevelle tub is a disaster! It has huge <a href="http://www.protolabs.com/resources/injection-molding-design-tips/united-states/2010-06/default.htm">ejector pin marks</a> in plain sight (remember this is a convertible!) and inner door panel detail that is almost non-existent and too 2-dimensional. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcnNP2cK5MF9YRW19rt8oI-QjC76CEdGSQHxjmPZHF4hXWTcpiY-0LJ24WYnXnpnIgCi6oCWLYdjkcLBzWyQ3AGdLpbrIzzN14_EWIgAqn9RRHI7etM25hKNU_v4eF09110Engln47i6Za/s1600/flash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcnNP2cK5MF9YRW19rt8oI-QjC76CEdGSQHxjmPZHF4hXWTcpiY-0LJ24WYnXnpnIgCi6oCWLYdjkcLBzWyQ3AGdLpbrIzzN14_EWIgAqn9RRHI7etM25hKNU_v4eF09110Engln47i6Za/s1600/flash.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next problem: flash and a general lack of crispness in the molding process. Flash is when the plastic runs between the 2 halves of the mold during the injection process. General lack of crispness, well I am not sure why that happens, and perhaps this was an issue back in 1971 and I never noticed. Some more modern kits have flash issues; the<a href="http://modelcarbuilder.blogspot.com/2015/02/50-ford-pickup-speed-build-finished.html"> Ford F1 pickup speed build</a> had a lot of it, but on these old AMT kits, it's just ridiculous! All the molding here is pretty bad. Everything, and I mean <i>everything</i>, will have to be carefully sanded, filed, and cleaned up.<br />
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And--the dreaded "chrome headlights". Yuck! Changing this out for "real" scale lenses (yes I know that's an oxymoron) will be a real challenge.<br />
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How about:"it just plain don't fit!" This is the interior tub test fitted into the 69 Chevelle's body. That looks like a one foot scale gap to me. On these old AMT kits, I have found the hood, the trim, and exhaust system, valances (front and rear), and interior tub, just don't, well, line up, ever! If this test fit is any indication, it will be a lot of work to correct fit issues.<br />
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Finally: "It just ain't right". On these old kits, the craftsmen making the tooling got some things way <i>wrong</i>, and the kit doesn't correspond to the 1:1 subject. EG! The flares on the wheel wells on the AMT 69 Chevelle are completely out to lunch! Correcting this, along with whatever other oddities I find, and I will find lots of them, I am sure, is going to be hours of work!<br />
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Now the balance sheet. There is still a cool factor about old AMT and MPC that can't be ignored. I have always felt their craftsmen loved cars, and loved this hobby, and you can tell by their work, even when they got things wrong, there is still something<i> really fun </i>about it. And, as far as fixing the above mentioned issues, I have a bit more lawn money now, as an employed adult, versus when I was 12. So I can buy a couple modern tooled kits--the two Camaros you see here, and rob parts out of them to try to correct the issues with the Chevelle without taking months scratchbuilding replacement parts or making endless trips to the parts box.<br />
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So overall, why did I do this? The challenge for sure. The fact that I made a chevelle model when I was 10 and it came out pretty well and my dad, the car fiend, said he liked it. I have seen youtubes and forum entires of other modelers reviewing this kit and being disappointed with the poor quality in general and complaining about some of the issues I touch on here. Some of these Internet authors even say Round 2 is ripping us off. Not true! I will never complain that Round 2 (or AMT) makes a substandard product; Round 2 is faithfully reproducing kits that were flawed to begin with, but still super fun, and we are lucky to have this reissue at all!Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-2329669996538171012015-02-08T17:29:00.000-08:002015-02-10T08:18:17.496-08:0050 Ford Pickup Speed Build--Finished!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>The Revell 50 Ford F1, glad to say: finished! </b>I didn't quite get it done in a weekend, but if you add it all up it, this build probably wasn't more more than 2 days and one evening. I had to take a little break in there to work, but overall, this was one fast build!</div>
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So is it ready for NNL, GSL, NHL, NBA, or whatever they call all the serious model car contests? Nope. There are little dings here and there, the gap on the front facade is way too big.... But if I look back to how I was building 3 years ago, versus now, I think I've improved! <br />
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There was no way I could churn something out this fast three years and have it end up this clean. <br />
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It's a rare time in my model making experience, in spite of the dings and gaps and other gremlins here and there, I am happy with how this came out, especially in light of how fast I built it. Imagine that!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixTXiTVgtf1vqfY4GIt5sLUYGfU8yuCH1luC1gIezROSC_-SBCBeFhsIASUNvWPUdplI5fgogILN9K1yuTaSPXYuJqlqhs6KKkeeIba_YRJMIBukgHe07_xXpApsxSSqGxNIdfj6ts_5F8/s1600/50-ford-pickup-hood-off-115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixTXiTVgtf1vqfY4GIt5sLUYGfU8yuCH1luC1gIezROSC_-SBCBeFhsIASUNvWPUdplI5fgogILN9K1yuTaSPXYuJqlqhs6KKkeeIba_YRJMIBukgHe07_xXpApsxSSqGxNIdfj6ts_5F8/s1600/50-ford-pickup-hood-off-115.jpg" height="464" width="640" /></a></div>
Next up? I am thinking of building a 69 Chevelle convertible that was re-released recently. I thought it was gone for good! This is a kit I remember building (and really liking!) as a kid. Which is what this is all about right?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjClhMi74bGd7722_suqFrummFzD4ojuNjUZHrakmU-VvZmhy-68XE49DKk_vVp2Deztjnn6f2CNm_Bn7SdCawSr3wnGdjUsFFUTOBGnsKyfGXHtjKsMwbGCtWPkAW4W__mQcmP46H_84XE/s1600/50-ford-pickup-rear-109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjClhMi74bGd7722_suqFrummFzD4ojuNjUZHrakmU-VvZmhy-68XE49DKk_vVp2Deztjnn6f2CNm_Bn7SdCawSr3wnGdjUsFFUTOBGnsKyfGXHtjKsMwbGCtWPkAW4W__mQcmP46H_84XE/s1600/50-ford-pickup-rear-109.jpg" height="396" width="640" /></a></div>
Compared to this kit, the AMT old school tooling is going to be a pain! This Revell kit was easy, easy, EASY to build. And if you screw up a part, the nice guys at Revell will send you a new one! I didn't have to this time, but it's good to know that those guys have your back. OK til next time, signing off. Don't get high off the fumes!Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-55684783920859627442015-01-18T16:23:00.002-08:002015-01-18T16:50:01.337-08:00Speed Build--Ford F1 Pickup--Day Two!<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>Back again! </b> This might be the first time I've done two posts in two days! So from last time: it took me over a year to build a Revell Audi R8, so I built a 58 AMT Chevy as fast as I could, but I am still not satisfied! After a trip to the LHS I'm seeing what else I can build fast!</div>
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The "winner" is an old Revell Pickup; from last time, I mostly picked this because the trim looked relatively easy to deal with. Going to build it 100% (!!) box stock. </div>
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OK so at 3PM of day 2, where am I? I am hardly an expert at any of this, much less "speed builds". So as always, I have to fix the plane while it's in the air. I have read for these "quick as you can" builds CA with accelerator is your best friend. Sadly, I have never had much luck with CA. To me it's brittle, runny, ruins plastic glass, and the only thing it sticks to every time is my skin. So my speed builds are all about scraping away paint and chrome really well, using the dreaded Testors "stinky red" polystyrene glue, the same glue I used when I was like 10 years old, and then clamping the dickens out of it and letting it all dry. Touching up whatever is needed if the scraping was too <i>beaucoup</i>. For chassis and interior paint, I used the usual combo of Krylon fabric, Duplicolor metals, and Tamiya washes, along with Tamiya Matt Black. And don't forget: lots of Sharpies. No airbrushing; I figured thinning, cleaning, etc. etc. would take too much time. So: I prepped everything, "Ponzi stick'd" each part on an alligator clip and shish-kabob stick and poked the stick into some styrofoam, and painted everything in bunches. That was last night at about 8PM.<br />
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OK, interiors and the undercarriage are easy enough I guess, and besides you, my faithful reader, no one will even see any of it! OK, about the body, how will I paint this without waiting 2 weeks for everything to dry? A candy coat with Polyurethane clear and primer and undercoat and polish and wax and bare metal foil and...and...and...well again if you follow this blog at all, you know the drill! These steps take <i>weeks</i> especially for me!!! I have one weekend! To the rescue: Testors One Coat Lacquer. <i>Una capa laca</i>, baby!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijbJyoOwZg4hMcO5DX7KIihLwr6ZatfEG9J8SECG9aSY9kGGeJrbZWE1a811r0PnLr5je6dAA9VRupKCz4EKC51DhcuXiWHcpgX-CeMLTufYfAFisraTQ_bm24wshmtC2lPqvtDpYhfQkl/s1600/bed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijbJyoOwZg4hMcO5DX7KIihLwr6ZatfEG9J8SECG9aSY9kGGeJrbZWE1a811r0PnLr5je6dAA9VRupKCz4EKC51DhcuXiWHcpgX-CeMLTufYfAFisraTQ_bm24wshmtC2lPqvtDpYhfQkl/s1600/bed.jpg" height="290" width="640" /></a></div>
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So <i>como esta una capa laca</i>? Damn bueno! the folks at Testors ought to win a nobel prize! It is truly amazing how quick it dries, good it looks, and how sloppy I can be with prep (for this, like, none!) and still have it look pretty darn good. Contest ready? Well, probably not. But good for no prep at all? You bet! Attention Joe Testors or whoever is in charge over there: Find the chemist who thought this up, and give that guy a raise! <br />
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First time I've tried the "wet look clear", and it looks, um....wet! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqpoGCnKuQEeK7CqMx-w07fOA4eh6y2aBLe6uMbTtw87MKiUyA2hpmYUR3uMLJbCl3gbaELSJTSwGaDelm1DzsKCSW3Hn08DMUeBooe5dPEg_d8oKTHTreppIGU7VA5E2pTVt3DY_ySjTl/s1600/engine189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqpoGCnKuQEeK7CqMx-w07fOA4eh6y2aBLe6uMbTtw87MKiUyA2hpmYUR3uMLJbCl3gbaELSJTSwGaDelm1DzsKCSW3Hn08DMUeBooe5dPEg_d8oKTHTreppIGU7VA5E2pTVt3DY_ySjTl/s1600/engine189.jpg" height="500" width="640" /></a></div>
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OK enough of that! On to the motor! Bad news: the engine for this kit is a real lemon. Revell gives us a flathead with an Ardun conversion, but they should have just stuck to whatever flatty they had lying around. The valve covers, so important for the cool Ardun look, look more to me like 2 blimps moored on each side of the block. To make things worse, things didn't fit, and the overall feel is a bit bloated. I'd kit bash the motor if I had more time, but hey this is a speed build! So what happened? I figure Revell took a flathead master they had lying around and transformed it into an Ardun without the necessary changes (like, get rid of the exhaust ports on the block!) Their own speed build!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaKCykKZF6RqfLO4e8m3IfkIQxb0GKS0MyiPFwcTTFbtXB_qZR3yf3pw1_x68merjArJSLTpw2ku79dR3GU_goVOMB_s0BKM29dbsDaDzDZZfcmyfrh7WChzDlVIB3khh8s0_UPUb5Iwtu/s1600/exhaust-184.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaKCykKZF6RqfLO4e8m3IfkIQxb0GKS0MyiPFwcTTFbtXB_qZR3yf3pw1_x68merjArJSLTpw2ku79dR3GU_goVOMB_s0BKM29dbsDaDzDZZfcmyfrh7WChzDlVIB3khh8s0_UPUb5Iwtu/s1600/exhaust-184.jpg" height="288" width="640" /></a></div>
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The exhaust system had to be wrestled into place, but unlike some of the older AMT kits I have built, at least I could get the thing to fit, albeit with some cursing and kludging. Fast, fast, fast!!!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3cipaMZY7XL4BTQE9RJUHuTbOKTWtS26LlojqNSpRCzsBVGTTEelUc-18WZUmZLfdUE-CLvwLc2_Spu5LS9lTf8npc03c4ICmbA-zj6TB2J_A7mL4WdEHOY_a2XkqtjS15YCyLcQweZhh/s1600/paint-191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3cipaMZY7XL4BTQE9RJUHuTbOKTWtS26LlojqNSpRCzsBVGTTEelUc-18WZUmZLfdUE-CLvwLc2_Spu5LS9lTf8npc03c4ICmbA-zj6TB2J_A7mL4WdEHOY_a2XkqtjS15YCyLcQweZhh/s1600/paint-191.jpg" height="452" width="640" /></a></div>
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What next? Going forward, I was hoping I could avoid polish, but like every other lacquer I've used there's a bit of wavy gravy and some orange peel. Oh well, I can't have everything. I'll have to polish it out after at least 12 hours dry time, which makes me think finishing it tomorrow may not happen (especially because I am expecting a guest). So much for a one weekend build?</div>
<br />Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-57263451453836466292015-01-17T15:31:00.006-08:002015-01-17T15:37:15.359-08:00Revell Ford F1 Pickup--Son of Speed Build!<b>I have a 3 day weekend</b> and thought it might be relaxing to try to build another kit FAST. So I went to the LHS (that's "local Hobby Shop" in hobby-mag speak) and picked out the Revell 50 Ford pickup, #7203.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRUKr0-Q3oLgXZ6juMCJrynqg94psckanfXmVaXvOFLc7pt7VXz75AJh-9NkNaq8tlhVBD5x3rCVVtegG0i4NqsvvdZXfTSpqkDrE70jwjk2jA5C3nMgFdBxsRXceK9NzO_FdUMhfbyJoH/s1600/Boxart83.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRUKr0-Q3oLgXZ6juMCJrynqg94psckanfXmVaXvOFLc7pt7VXz75AJh-9NkNaq8tlhVBD5x3rCVVtegG0i4NqsvvdZXfTSpqkDrE70jwjk2jA5C3nMgFdBxsRXceK9NzO_FdUMhfbyJoH/s1600/Boxart83.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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I realize that a lot of my model building is retracing my hobby life when I was 10 or 11 years old. I stopped building when I was 13 I think, and started again maybe 5 years ago? that all said, I never remember my brothers or me building a model of a pickup. Which means: I didn't pick this kit out of nostalgia; I picked it because to me it looks like I could build it <i>fast</i>. Nice round body panels are easy to prep and paint; no need for bare metal foil (not much anyway) and not many logos or other body details to worry about.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU4YGT86FTwHsJuivAKezy9vuDJFJJBDLr9OHwWWTFvkHkBdfkRR3BB1kFQb8rBvLEl0PAR5riVklrLgw3-WnRVarai1Flm60nl0Y30v0pSCF_7N-ZVh-PvBPK9ZEXQviJfp08d4EqUJKZ/s1600/bodyparts86.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU4YGT86FTwHsJuivAKezy9vuDJFJJBDLr9OHwWWTFvkHkBdfkRR3BB1kFQb8rBvLEl0PAR5riVklrLgw3-WnRVarai1Flm60nl0Y30v0pSCF_7N-ZVh-PvBPK9ZEXQviJfp08d4EqUJKZ/s1600/bodyparts86.jpg" height="388" width="640" /></a></div>
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The multi-piece body had some nasty mold lines and needed various clean up touches but it's drying now. I hope to be able to paint it tomorrow.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxw0ngdTtw5PXK_HSQMfsSORfJ1BnqvJgqyGnorFDYa5TXTv4rSpe7vo_Xnc2qvjnd0Di6rctQ-54iiwBOx7MXCxdaOSShdX4-vWNUqdR2j5IbUs3rKYJNBpOmLAoEP12Bde6SJzaW6pgL/s1600/chassis-parts89.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxw0ngdTtw5PXK_HSQMfsSORfJ1BnqvJgqyGnorFDYa5TXTv4rSpe7vo_Xnc2qvjnd0Di6rctQ-54iiwBOx7MXCxdaOSShdX4-vWNUqdR2j5IbUs3rKYJNBpOmLAoEP12Bde6SJzaW6pgL/s1600/chassis-parts89.jpg" height="622" width="640" /></a></div>
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Chassis and engine block had flash galore but went together easily enough, at least so far. To save time, I will paint each of these subassemblies as a unit. I am going to work on masking glue points again; that's something I started doing for the 58 Chevy and seemed to speed things up--just put a bit of scotch tape over where the parts go together; no endless paint scraping! After removing the masks and gluing, touch up the paint. It's fast, and makes for a sturdier and maybe even cleaner build than scrape-scrape-scaping all the painted surfaces to be joined.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0QeL0Ze0xV-cmhKMolO51v0EK4GahaNKqCYNwSwjrfFGQ2ro5tupsyVn0cHJtGDB1k-V_Vz8MSPDSaJ3-bAJ98n3qOfsqPpw5NQkxYnv4rnmyst37Y6-Pwdz24DbDHZ1UzDZbXywLOEpj/s1600/plasticweld91.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0QeL0Ze0xV-cmhKMolO51v0EK4GahaNKqCYNwSwjrfFGQ2ro5tupsyVn0cHJtGDB1k-V_Vz8MSPDSaJ3-bAJ98n3qOfsqPpw5NQkxYnv4rnmyst37Y6-Pwdz24DbDHZ1UzDZbXywLOEpj/s1600/plasticweld91.jpg" height="640" width="338" /></a></div>
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Here's a trick for cleaning up seams and mold lines: over-apply Plastruct Weld. When used with gusto, Plastruct weld melts mold lines away and even fills minor seams. I found this out accidentally when I used to much for an engine assembly--all the details got wiped out--but now I use this trick all the time; on the 50 F1 for instance I used a boatload of weld to clean up the very noticeable mold lines on the exhaust pipes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg17k41h3tx1tZSwnXE2v3aRMhCzWGkN_-lLJIAQLG2ZSwcBmydGHnQkHMS-GkB8n7LdiaV5WocnzS6_UlPFzLw-Z7Jx8uhD7we5y6MLZSeVzLq-H_gohkYCcWqJDrXZMDS1p6ewdhJl4lr/s1600/fastpaints93.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg17k41h3tx1tZSwnXE2v3aRMhCzWGkN_-lLJIAQLG2ZSwcBmydGHnQkHMS-GkB8n7LdiaV5WocnzS6_UlPFzLw-Z7Jx8uhD7we5y6MLZSeVzLq-H_gohkYCcWqJDrXZMDS1p6ewdhJl4lr/s1600/fastpaints93.jpg" height="552" width="640" /></a></div>
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No way I am using metalizers on this build, all that airbrushing and drying takes way too much time! Rattle can hardware store metal finishes will have to do. Left to right: Kryon Stainless; Tamiya something or other; Duplicolor chrome which looks to me more like aluminum than chrome, and Krylon gold, the latter is the most "metallic" non-metalizer I know. If you like the red label on the krylon gold, please be aware that it's that way because my dad used it for a paint stand. Nice!!!!</div>
Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-51177272232152767312015-01-11T15:59:00.002-08:002015-01-11T15:59:26.948-08:0058 Chevy Impala--Speed Build, Built for Speed?--Finished!!!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>So as I said last time: it took me a year to build a scale Audi R8</b>. So I have to ask: what can I build in a weekend? I started this AMT 58 Chevy a long time ago, got as far as the body and Bare Metal Foil and put it aside. I wanted to finish it fast and I did!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLjPGMkcHeyD_VC19gf7a7GfSTMtpWFwFm2Ov841ryt_7Zz6CcFrMN5wJGWdrA0oE0IlXHmSWKHpdV3W6MKE-8F0TMZu51XrI7sQObGh6jI2tGkmg49VHI8GcuTQLieKVNOkXoMhQXUwUJ/s1600/58-impala-83.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLjPGMkcHeyD_VC19gf7a7GfSTMtpWFwFm2Ov841ryt_7Zz6CcFrMN5wJGWdrA0oE0IlXHmSWKHpdV3W6MKE-8F0TMZu51XrI7sQObGh6jI2tGkmg49VHI8GcuTQLieKVNOkXoMhQXUwUJ/s1600/58-impala-83.jpg" height="312" width="640" /></a></div>
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So how is the finished build? To me, it looks like it was built: fast. There are trim issues here and there, little dinks and dings in the paint, and plenty of fit issues, but there are always fit issues on these old AMT kits. The question is, how much time do I want to spend fixing all the issues, and for this build, it was pretty much NO TIME. Boogie on! The front grille from the kit didn't fit. Not even close! Forget it!! find the front grille and wheels/tires from the parts box! Ditch the old stuff! hey it's a "mild kustom!"<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy_mspMTl4092y5xzUPldF-VLy7QGi7rpcvyWAjAYixbvjdHzkASH7s2YmI3cj-oN_zHEfkwLIEdriRr1r6QOz4FtBosmG1_fUx1_2kuIHDytn3dccusW7WCAfNYfBLjf0oso1_0voSlWA/s1600/58-impala-90.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy_mspMTl4092y5xzUPldF-VLy7QGi7rpcvyWAjAYixbvjdHzkASH7s2YmI3cj-oN_zHEfkwLIEdriRr1r6QOz4FtBosmG1_fUx1_2kuIHDytn3dccusW7WCAfNYfBLjf0oso1_0voSlWA/s1600/58-impala-90.jpg" height="400" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Another speed saving trick: masks? We don't need no stinking masks! I didn't mask the interior, the undercarriage, the frame, anything.It all came out just fine. Isn't the idea to have fun?<br /><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTulqpzioZLJublEH1OpTASTp-DhypkDbcOy2hvUKPUhn0J-u6C7lMzVkf-o8_L2MMAgwguU9SI37FfXmYjMhz9QcjcCd7erkPJgZUofpKrTIXJZOK9_cm2pqKeYYG9fpclMN1sDHzh6q/s1600/58-impala-engine088.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTulqpzioZLJublEH1OpTASTp-DhypkDbcOy2hvUKPUhn0J-u6C7lMzVkf-o8_L2MMAgwguU9SI37FfXmYjMhz9QcjcCd7erkPJgZUofpKrTIXJZOK9_cm2pqKeYYG9fpclMN1sDHzh6q/s1600/58-impala-engine088.jpg" height="346" width="640" /></a></div>
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The flat finish gives it a sort of mean look. I have never built a "flat black" model before this one. There is a first time for everything!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmxwJSq-i2lwjLIuNuzyuxlRsdXayoBbdY_-wsY2mt_zao3Y0KvOmb9tpIljt-A2x0z9_sobsvlDr9P4f2fhlFiqCFDTbKghNTrilGmtPYTecQGGHVjrWavzh5GBI8VB3uYAGnXAuSVAi8/s1600/impala-34-front-80.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmxwJSq-i2lwjLIuNuzyuxlRsdXayoBbdY_-wsY2mt_zao3Y0KvOmb9tpIljt-A2x0z9_sobsvlDr9P4f2fhlFiqCFDTbKghNTrilGmtPYTecQGGHVjrWavzh5GBI8VB3uYAGnXAuSVAi8/s1600/impala-34-front-80.jpg" height="322" width="640" /></a></div>
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We'll ignore the really noticeable AMT issues, like the hood not quite fitting OK? If you squint it looks well--good. maybe! But hey, it's a speed build! It was almost done by New Year's. One thing I can say: a few years ago I would have never been able to build something that looks OK (I think this came out OK, not great) in a few evenings. It was fun to see how fast I could build this!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtpT1vcJhUOchI6b49F-Ufkg7EtMwJ-ceZgr99_aGa_P2fFfWrlArGGLVMBa2BrSVOaWYFzTXdJBe1XqzugkM3u5RMIOQnB6kOD5idUww_n-5AjVu4HZM8rtTtmG2h7qcduKZeAtrPjD8Q/s1600/impala-rear-engione89.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtpT1vcJhUOchI6b49F-Ufkg7EtMwJ-ceZgr99_aGa_P2fFfWrlArGGLVMBa2BrSVOaWYFzTXdJBe1XqzugkM3u5RMIOQnB6kOD5idUww_n-5AjVu4HZM8rtTtmG2h7qcduKZeAtrPjD8Q/s1600/impala-rear-engione89.jpg" height="336" width="640" /></a></div>
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So what's next? I am thinking about another speed build. Can I build something even faster?Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-25315023114978514522014-12-25T06:50:00.001-08:002014-12-25T07:04:13.996-08:00AMT 58 Impala--SPEED BUILD!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>OK it took me over a year to build the difficult and dangerous </b><a href="http://www.revell.com/model-kits/cars/85-4211.html#.VJwhXsAJA">Audi R8 Kit</a> from Revell. Most of that was waiting for things to dry, pondering a build issue I didn't know how to deal with, or just being busy with other things, but really, a YEAR? So--do builds really need to take that long? Let's hope not! What if I use my skills gained from the past 4 or so years of building to build something <b>fast, fast, fast,</b> so it's done over the course of a weekend? And still try to keep things reasonably clean and OCD friendly? Is it wishful thinking?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcNiHGCgRIGlEpwRPQTDh86SDoHgavwjo-CeKE8ZptZLnVPCOYGFPX05am7gyGECmCiRd1_iz8B_ntkTHecTCSGe_RS-TfIP1GomjHK4S42-nCXyt9Vf4TgnTAsT2nKOXsq35PSLVKty4j/s1600/impala-engine387.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcNiHGCgRIGlEpwRPQTDh86SDoHgavwjo-CeKE8ZptZLnVPCOYGFPX05am7gyGECmCiRd1_iz8B_ntkTHecTCSGe_RS-TfIP1GomjHK4S42-nCXyt9Vf4TgnTAsT2nKOXsq35PSLVKty4j/s1600/impala-engine387.jpg" height="500" width="640" /></a></div>
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So it's Christmas and I am on call for work but otherwise have a lot of time on my hands. I started a <a href="http://modelcarbuilder.blogspot.com/2014/06/audi-and-chevy-another-months-dabbling.html">58 Impala AMT kit </a>while I was waiting (as was often the case) for things to dry on the R8. The Impala body, BMF, and a few things are already done prior to this weekend, so let's finish the damn thing off! So it's matter of clipping, cleaning, and painting the parts, and doing sub assemblies.<br />
For this build, I tried yet another time saving tip: instead of scraping paint, I'll mask the non visible surfaces so I can just peel off the mask and glue. For the engine, that saves a lot of time! It really works! I am probably going to do this going forward for all builds. The engine has been assembled and wired, needs a bit of touch up but that will take seconds.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh047xmOOtcu8mTyqyefmRzyL_GO0DYfIKMY3PAMVX4t6vArHe9XxxlmG4nYYCf_yftAccI4VqZVutPC8YmTBKwHC_Q1GVBRN_HZU66q6lX8xIuc_np3bnaO9tqQWqgEYvt-Uao1F_RiXv3/s1600/chassis383.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh047xmOOtcu8mTyqyefmRzyL_GO0DYfIKMY3PAMVX4t6vArHe9XxxlmG4nYYCf_yftAccI4VqZVutPC8YmTBKwHC_Q1GVBRN_HZU66q6lX8xIuc_np3bnaO9tqQWqgEYvt-Uao1F_RiXv3/s1600/chassis383.jpg" height="304" width="640" /></a></div>
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The chassis/frame got a quick coat of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Matte-Black-Spray-Lacquer/dp/B000BN32QU">Tamiya Matt Black</a>. The silver parts are <a href="https://www.duplicolor.com/products/automotiveMetallic/">Duplicolor Chrome </a>which to me looks more like aluminum. Faster than Alclad? Um, yep! Instead of masking the frame, I hand brushed some Future floor polish to offset it from the rest of the undercarriage. Good enough!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXzvgrJKOKOV96ncQvfy1pFGlG68qQzK4fWZmFxVGuf_Za1sTtavqwLNf5jTEEbOmxv3riGMnQhVbWC_L2pdwGDv0v50mJwQXo7uD1FFGKarV70HDbKwuT73iz9TlkznM-dd83RqmaZNyg/s1600/impala-interior-390.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXzvgrJKOKOV96ncQvfy1pFGlG68qQzK4fWZmFxVGuf_Za1sTtavqwLNf5jTEEbOmxv3riGMnQhVbWC_L2pdwGDv0v50mJwQXo7uD1FFGKarV70HDbKwuT73iz9TlkznM-dd83RqmaZNyg/s1600/impala-interior-390.jpg" height="502" width="640" /></a></div>
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For the interior, masking always takes a lot of time, so why not hand brush? It's not as clean as masking would have been, but again, I'm doing this fast! No one will notice the brush strokes anyway right? Carpets are formed with a few sprinkles of <a href="http://modelcarbuilder.blogspot.com/2012/07/toyota-2000gt-paint-and-carpets.html">Zing embossing powder</a>. Looks OK and takes about 5 minutes to apply. Good enough!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLBeP2ZxlPJc-0Nj_R3MVlMV0nXZbq0b4z-lGQrhh7GMzwNtKSU5lQnloLGmLIw5kGm4VQDTnmaRF0a363PwfckyAwj7PK0ZI4MBmH-Mg-kdk3O7hhaaaPgqzFvMPgUmV01GeC7FKHSpFy/s1600/impala-interor-392.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLBeP2ZxlPJc-0Nj_R3MVlMV0nXZbq0b4z-lGQrhh7GMzwNtKSU5lQnloLGmLIw5kGm4VQDTnmaRF0a363PwfckyAwj7PK0ZI4MBmH-Mg-kdk3O7hhaaaPgqzFvMPgUmV01GeC7FKHSpFy/s1600/impala-interor-392.jpg" height="498" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ah hah! If you want to "tell a story" as they say in the retail business, have the brush visible along with the parts. That way you're ready to have the photo in a<a href="http://www.kalmbach.com/"> hobby magazine</a>. This isn't the brush I used, but it's good enough.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJZlgBm8OHjlxKFCb4eJpKWbr_LwoP2MqITvEzHtI0n3KzujdZBVKTZIZq-3jEOT2dDaK21FhqAxcD-A7BpAVJhZc9gZm6iI8KMXqb2xuQlOkJRz74JxyT6CBtQBzY_dEfiP31mYryCUaW/s1600/imnpala-body394.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJZlgBm8OHjlxKFCb4eJpKWbr_LwoP2MqITvEzHtI0n3KzujdZBVKTZIZq-3jEOT2dDaK21FhqAxcD-A7BpAVJhZc9gZm6iI8KMXqb2xuQlOkJRz74JxyT6CBtQBzY_dEfiP31mYryCUaW/s1600/imnpala-body394.jpg" height="484" width="640" /></a></div>
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I have found you can't rush <a href="http://www.bare-metal.com/">bare metal foil</a>-ing but for the Impala I did anyway. From a distance it looks pretty good. If you get right up close or use macro shots, not as much.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtIYJ0HSPZbW68-ash_tXdLlBPJLGaY230qBLN7J2At0H7ljTU9Rs_4Siv_pCC5G4hI3IHIMShR-Flqx7NzbdiKkL5SMBSljP2DMexGQ_r8xbHPbQDt0fxqvfPHUcDkqN94iOMXP_t4Gus/s1600/sharpee397.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtIYJ0HSPZbW68-ash_tXdLlBPJLGaY230qBLN7J2At0H7ljTU9Rs_4Siv_pCC5G4hI3IHIMShR-Flqx7NzbdiKkL5SMBSljP2DMexGQ_r8xbHPbQDt0fxqvfPHUcDkqN94iOMXP_t4Gus/s1600/sharpee397.jpg" height="352" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another huge time save--<b>use Sharpies</b>. Not the paint pens, I have never been able to get consistently good results with those. Just regular Sharpie's. 1001 uses! I am finding in addition to making things go fast, no setup time, no stirring, no mixing, no brushes to clean, in some cases Sharpies actually work better, since they don't add any thickness to the part. Edges of body panels, for instance, or steering wheel rims, look better with some Sharpie. You don't want to add a quarter scale inch to those.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQdfo9pUfxNB22vKEiofj-DdlKUk929FkW99pvIF2juS9_VjysghILpOjb_T5kK2DWBoDBS1D5dOPSgwRizU-x9gcaguDQWO4hR5ZukrXNa7Yy-HV5CEKCUnb8MM75Qq5y9nHGveJk-cfU/s1600/impala-parts-395.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQdfo9pUfxNB22vKEiofj-DdlKUk929FkW99pvIF2juS9_VjysghILpOjb_T5kK2DWBoDBS1D5dOPSgwRizU-x9gcaguDQWO4hR5ZukrXNa7Yy-HV5CEKCUnb8MM75Qq5y9nHGveJk-cfU/s1600/impala-parts-395.jpg" height="376" width="640" /></a></div>
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All parts were prepped, ponzi stick'd, and painted the usual way. All silvers at once, all flat blacks at once. I didn't get a photo but you have seen this before if you follow this bog, er, blog. I used rattle cans everywhere (faster than setting up an airbrush) and for the block I used <a href="http://www.megahobby.com/testorsonecoatlacquer3ozspraypaints.aspx">Testors One Coat </a>lacquer, the only thing bad I can say about that paint is that they need to make it in about 40 more colors! It's great stuff!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaAlTduFZtI3mM9AHQ-tyZqSHaq6qRZvEOpOFlLeRRLmo8720YqYUm_iqlbNW0sUSuE7JHDCBrmq5rPMgBs12KBfQKrRr0T8b30KWXai3FigmJp9iG48cwrmgcq6bKJmRedzxuQASf9HqH/s1600/pressnseal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaAlTduFZtI3mM9AHQ-tyZqSHaq6qRZvEOpOFlLeRRLmo8720YqYUm_iqlbNW0sUSuE7JHDCBrmq5rPMgBs12KBfQKrRr0T8b30KWXai3FigmJp9iG48cwrmgcq6bKJmRedzxuQASf9HqH/s1600/pressnseal.jpg" height="368" width="640" /></a></div>
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Final time saving tip: Run to your Piggly Wiggly, Safeway, Riskys or whatever, and get some "<a href="https://www.glad.com/food-storage/plastic-wrap/press-n-seal/">Glad Press 'n Seal</a>." First, I like anything that has "'' n " in its name. That alone makes me want to buy it. Second, for masking or protecting a painted surface after it's dry, this stuff is the best. I saw Chris Chapman, <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bbHTLgPXaM">a really low key guy on Youtube</a>, using this to mask a 1:25 body (a 58 impala, oddly enough!), it's sort of like thick Saran Wrap and it really works, it's much faster than putting tape everywhere, and seems to block all the paint I've thrown at it so far. <a href="http://www.freewilliamsburg.com/may_2003/creem.html">Boy Howdy!</a></div>
<br />Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-16904215322917593322014-12-20T10:45:00.003-08:002014-12-25T07:08:32.309-08:00Audi R8--Finished at last!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>Finished at last! The year long build of a Revell Audi R8.</b> Most of it was time was time lettings thing dry and figuring out how to glue the glass or keeping the wheels from falling off!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjobOC0__hqrO6dGCLbKAk3LnntQ2dLD1-rXR0cXzmMRH4JFXkzTkY_sW_BE4vUedB_wlGvRPxRa2OqqYrwBfdu71gBdBWG1F65pCjJyKhNjffBiwbr8ZivlgGCQjeoB61tY-8l3yFT9D5t/s1600/R8-front34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjobOC0__hqrO6dGCLbKAk3LnntQ2dLD1-rXR0cXzmMRH4JFXkzTkY_sW_BE4vUedB_wlGvRPxRa2OqqYrwBfdu71gBdBWG1F65pCjJyKhNjffBiwbr8ZivlgGCQjeoB61tY-8l3yFT9D5t/s1600/R8-front34.jpg" height="404" width="640" /></a></div>
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To me this build featured (??) a "new" adhesive, fairly new to me anyway, called <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Kristal-Klear-1-oz/dp/B0006O029E">Micro Krystal Klear</a>. I had used it a bit of MKK on previous builds, but this time, I use it with much beaucoup. All the photoetch was attached with it, as were the license plates and most of the glass. In the end the windshield proved to be too tough and I ended up using Testors "Stinky Red" styrene glue along with clamps, weights, and plenty of cursing. The driver's side A pillar still doesn't look right, but the windshield glass never really fit, it was maybe 1/32" too narrow. Not sure what else I could have done, short of trying to fabricate my own windshield. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYP_0c3toX4QK_a5EKvF7We9VS85z8FRK9-RNbnuG97BcQHxGgPkKq37h2C5Wb-1GVoElyW-xFjpE1kgtzdBH5ILlaLynDWxKhL_A1diVKYysjMxWolQHPFowxlA2DcpyWfV_cT_xD654I/s1600/R8-rear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYP_0c3toX4QK_a5EKvF7We9VS85z8FRK9-RNbnuG97BcQHxGgPkKq37h2C5Wb-1GVoElyW-xFjpE1kgtzdBH5ILlaLynDWxKhL_A1diVKYysjMxWolQHPFowxlA2DcpyWfV_cT_xD654I/s1600/R8-rear.jpg" height="398" width="640" /></a></div>
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Overall this was a difficult build, at least for me, at my skill level. I also figure this will be the last model I build where the wheels steer, or turn, or whatever. The wheels don't sit at 90 degrees to the grounds and that drives me crazy!. After a few years of doing this, I have found"steerable wheels" (all 4 wheels on this steer!) <b>never do.</b> Next time, I take extreme measures, like re-engineering the axles with brass rods. Otherwise it's worth it to just <b>glue 'em down.</b> I am thinking about removing the R8 wheels and reattaching with epoxy--but I was hoping I was done?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcvvVCe0RgNXTOenQrSq63MES2Uv2FwQ418vpXol4CmFyvl3hYhf6fWM5XJVbC17LaxBOHqTl2F4kJYFYCNDVwnze_nSkAvJAa3cmnPR_ikJ0sebLV7YfZBeyvr-1ieFnbxpHd46gWOs_O/s1600/R8-side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcvvVCe0RgNXTOenQrSq63MES2Uv2FwQ418vpXol4CmFyvl3hYhf6fWM5XJVbC17LaxBOHqTl2F4kJYFYCNDVwnze_nSkAvJAa3cmnPR_ikJ0sebLV7YfZBeyvr-1ieFnbxpHd46gWOs_O/s1600/R8-side.jpg" height="292" width="640" /></a></div>
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Overall: I guess after a year working perhaps it should look better.... I like the way the pearl finish came out, it glows a bit in low light (hard to see here), but it could have paid more attention to the way the rear facia attaches to the body.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE6JVsxImBq4RVI6LprCPVWnfeug1yUoYk_WxrmLpwZLxyx1b88be0_rLch_-icpWfwdrk4T-EJipYg6CKyYBKLLLMz0e63ebgZJxVmtswdXDZxSc5toyaALvqnKpK1zjQ55xwyXzspmbM/s1600/R8-top-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE6JVsxImBq4RVI6LprCPVWnfeug1yUoYk_WxrmLpwZLxyx1b88be0_rLch_-icpWfwdrk4T-EJipYg6CKyYBKLLLMz0e63ebgZJxVmtswdXDZxSc5toyaALvqnKpK1zjQ55xwyXzspmbM/s1600/R8-top-front.jpg" height="314" width="640" /></a></div>
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Not a bad looking build from certain angles. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfa6eUPyhQhyvq4VnVTOoWtLkqWcqWSvgi6zy8RnfVkxzRRao-nFLcnjhOkxq5NS4VPXub5b0b22sK6bTF7YpcoI0GdeOjmBCkp6lDTSEsFcpAiOZ4___bHE1BzxTIjl0NGdf7Na6XgfQu/s1600/R8-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfa6eUPyhQhyvq4VnVTOoWtLkqWcqWSvgi6zy8RnfVkxzRRao-nFLcnjhOkxq5NS4VPXub5b0b22sK6bTF7YpcoI0GdeOjmBCkp6lDTSEsFcpAiOZ4___bHE1BzxTIjl0NGdf7Na6XgfQu/s1600/R8-front.jpg" height="462" width="640" /></a></div>
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So am I going to build more models of supercars? Well since I would never, for financial as well as personal reasons, buy or even drive one, probably not. But maybe I will. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirjwgNcJXED_lD0GErmDu6XQ1ouLYK0mwGvEL39o23tqpSd2d3NdwFcu8a8z0STx-bJUvDNMuoGhTIqlTtbSlt7t8wKigLHsc4C3Re3d_7v9ALZcun9D2YL0z71PC5DD5Xud1CMBZc467R/s1600/aaaR8-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirjwgNcJXED_lD0GErmDu6XQ1ouLYK0mwGvEL39o23tqpSd2d3NdwFcu8a8z0STx-bJUvDNMuoGhTIqlTtbSlt7t8wKigLHsc4C3Re3d_7v9ALZcun9D2YL0z71PC5DD5Xud1CMBZc467R/s1600/aaaR8-1.jpg" height="362" width="640" /></a></div>
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As a tribute to the dude who built the box art kit, I was going to leave the rear pipes completely off--the box stock ones didn't line up, but I ended up scratch building some out of styrene tube. So I guess what you see is only 99% box stock!<br />
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OK, say goodnight to the R8. Next up, I am going to try to build a few things fast. I don't mean "build a model of a fast car". I mean "build a model and not take a year to finish it". What a thought!Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-77935099251917564602014-11-25T09:52:00.001-08:002014-11-25T09:53:57.740-08:00Audi R8--T Minus 10 and Holding! Or: another glass-aster!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<strong>It's been like a year</strong> and I'm still working on a 1:25 scale Audi R8 from Revell. If you add up all the time I've worked on it it's probably not much. It's just spread out. Besides being busy with a million other things, I feel like I'm in a slump of sorts, and, this is a difficult kit (for me anyway) and requires a lot of patience and drying time. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjic9FsdAHU9I5ljZVlT8Q1HS9Z4MBNhLggDyvbqLBBhFlVJ0PXSq0mvQYSVEQhR1NUpGnfECnxrMeF0Ivgt-X7RbbESO_vxTY7KZQuiedclxthiYZry8-fIkne5HgVqQyeJI1kO0mS9aY3/s1600/R8-almost-done0080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjic9FsdAHU9I5ljZVlT8Q1HS9Z4MBNhLggDyvbqLBBhFlVJ0PXSq0mvQYSVEQhR1NUpGnfECnxrMeF0Ivgt-X7RbbESO_vxTY7KZQuiedclxthiYZry8-fIkne5HgVqQyeJI1kO0mS9aY3/s1600/R8-almost-done0080.jpg" height="506" width="640" /></a></div>
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So here it is so far. Body and chassis are a pair. Getting the body and interior all lined up was a pain, I had to dremel away about 1/4" off the bottom of the interior and another 1/4" off the driver's side. Don't follow the instructions here; glue to interior to the body and not the chassis, I couldn't get it to look even halfway decent otherwise. <br />
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I ended up having to cut away all the alignment pins for body/interior alignment. Otherwise everything was about 4 scale inches too high and too far to the right. And! Don't even bother putting on the rear clip/valance until the rest of the body is on. I couldn't make the body fit otherwise and never did get the rear exhaust openings to line up with the exhaust system (interesting--on the box art, that guy couldn't get it aligned either!)<br />
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So where the heck is the windshield? I didn't like the paint on the first windshield I prepped, the black surround didn't look "scale", so I bought a spare kit and got that one installed with Micro Krystal Klear.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg03SpS6YDw5Cpc3cL0wVZgl5uczOhx8Uh3je8frNzeVDnBODa0UjSAogYZ1-4P6oXL3IuE9jDrxJkpX3zSvAfh8hbxsSmLfXjjGfNYdTKwPKy8wTUj-xAH3FDrhyphenhyphen0zOZYah1BNcfcfoDEz/s1600/R8almost-done_0079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg03SpS6YDw5Cpc3cL0wVZgl5uczOhx8Uh3je8frNzeVDnBODa0UjSAogYZ1-4P6oXL3IuE9jDrxJkpX3zSvAfh8hbxsSmLfXjjGfNYdTKwPKy8wTUj-xAH3FDrhyphenhyphen0zOZYah1BNcfcfoDEz/s1600/R8almost-done_0079.jpg" height="434" width="640" /></a></div>
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So I am going for final assembly and then I noticed a small spot of paint on the replacement windshield that would have driven me crazy! No I don't know where the paint fleck came from, and no I didn't get a "before" picture!!!! So I carefully cut out windshield number two.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqW2tEWYVQZP1MABzdD7R_RaslxyyZ-qsws8nwilm-hA_LZOmFN9HkdcAuVQM49l9smcbpiFnKi2Zwn0fT2RoT_y67ZK2wpJuFdmOoQRatGie7BhpL84wGG_EP0r6UQ1PZlxI-5_jsO0ro/s1600/cowling0081.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqW2tEWYVQZP1MABzdD7R_RaslxyyZ-qsws8nwilm-hA_LZOmFN9HkdcAuVQM49l9smcbpiFnKi2Zwn0fT2RoT_y67ZK2wpJuFdmOoQRatGie7BhpL84wGG_EP0r6UQ1PZlxI-5_jsO0ro/s1600/cowling0081.jpg" height="536" width="640" /></a></div>
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As long as the windshield was out, the dash cowling had some blemishes on it so I pried that off as well and repainted. A couple of years ago I would have let this go! Not now!!!! What happened to the good old, sloppy days past?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWgchIRSxyfeh7_tDolHYuQHWkBKgHG1Pi2cnOSqoxfo3NBEumydEZHgqWGjTnJ6odQ_Et_H0dxDe-zABdQz5Bhr6bnaoN_oU8nJ-F06OX0OFKQlC5rx4bluK8sUEVqMWPQRlSDpi5WPpn/s1600/acryldriedpaint_remover0083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWgchIRSxyfeh7_tDolHYuQHWkBKgHG1Pi2cnOSqoxfo3NBEumydEZHgqWGjTnJ6odQ_Et_H0dxDe-zABdQz5Bhr6bnaoN_oU8nJ-F06OX0OFKQlC5rx4bluK8sUEVqMWPQRlSDpi5WPpn/s1600/acryldriedpaint_remover0083.jpg" height="640" width="482" /></a></div>
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To "fix" the blemished second windshield I figured I'd use the trusty Dried paint remover, right? 1001 uses?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN4x-cQkLLB09FtlX7sF-pg4Fd7dFq5BSYXa_qb0kZtc_JOxwGS_I2B2-nFxGygOaD56N9_VdpAjg0TwjZr6yqH3EC7UNxm5m9-_q6EHDrQYpfi5tjsEmBf-PCLtA7spBIqsiskHhewdfD/s1600/badwindshield_0086.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN4x-cQkLLB09FtlX7sF-pg4Fd7dFq5BSYXa_qb0kZtc_JOxwGS_I2B2-nFxGygOaD56N9_VdpAjg0TwjZr6yqH3EC7UNxm5m9-_q6EHDrQYpfi5tjsEmBf-PCLtA7spBIqsiskHhewdfD/s1600/badwindshield_0086.jpg" height="546" width="640" /></a></div>
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Not!!! OK lesson and warning: don't EVER use dry acryl paint solvent on scale plastic glass! NEVER EVER EVER! It destroys the plastic glass, turning the clear completely and miserably opaque as you see here. Live and learn! Fortunately Revell has a mail in for spare parts, so I mailed in for my 3rd windshield, otherwise I am looking at getting a THIRD kit for this one box stock build. And I ask: will this finally do it?</div>
<br />Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-32612322492081416962014-10-19T18:20:00.002-07:002014-10-19T21:15:44.915-07:00Audi R8: Pain in the Glass Part II<b>I am (still!) building my 1:25 Revell Audi R8 </b>and have spent the last 3 weeks or so pondering a serious issue: how to glue in the glass without making a total mess?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOp2A1kI7OpE2sEVzzJ7mFIQQP3v4PZAJbiAyEFT4zfg2PvW8MzNgOXVgiGhUTfP3Wk_mZXqWeWg6kTaWBQExj06GqoBbFfMcNTL_HldextwtZdM3b3rYgUlfjgJgT1DtBqGHMYkppfQuW/s1600/front-glass-drawing380.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOp2A1kI7OpE2sEVzzJ7mFIQQP3v4PZAJbiAyEFT4zfg2PvW8MzNgOXVgiGhUTfP3Wk_mZXqWeWg6kTaWBQExj06GqoBbFfMcNTL_HldextwtZdM3b3rYgUlfjgJgT1DtBqGHMYkppfQuW/s1600/front-glass-drawing380.jpg" height="346" width="640" /></a></div>
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Last time I tried to mask off the glass and use paint all around, but it didn't look "scale" so I got the glass out of my "backup kit" and drew the outline with Sharpee. That looks much more "scale", but, Whatever. Glad I had a backup kit.</div>
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So here's the problem. Take a look at the drawing here. The bevel where the glass goes is covered with semi gloss black paint. The glass itself has Sharpee simulating the black lining that surrounds modern automobile glass. So I need to join paint to paint. Was this great planning? No. But it's done. </div>
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I found out early on with this silly hobby: no glue, anywhere, can penetrate hobby paint. Not Testors' stinky red; not Testors' liquid glue, not epoxy, not watch crystal glass. And of course you can't use CA, that will ruin the plastic glass and turn it a smoky white (which makes me wonder what it does to my brain cells!!). </div>
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For this glass glue-up, there is no way for me to remove the paint anywhere without things looking bad, and there seemed to be no way to glue it down without making a huge glue bomb mess. I tried using clear enamel paint, but it didn't form a tight enough bond and the glass would pop out. I tried the same thing with acrylic clear, same results. I needed something stronger!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg713AG-MovubuvtOAZLw6fTu2kIEKaqt10iIGWKz7sL4Ma73TOVusljqZzLy9tRTu7sPaRxoK80Wu1RuVcQnvVGlgpZML6q6sUIK-yNAf4ct-QWcHwDS5d54BB4xqYRmTYs0aUoLzGpk84/s1600/mkclear368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg713AG-MovubuvtOAZLw6fTu2kIEKaqt10iIGWKz7sL4Ma73TOVusljqZzLy9tRTu7sPaRxoK80Wu1RuVcQnvVGlgpZML6q6sUIK-yNAf4ct-QWcHwDS5d54BB4xqYRmTYs0aUoLzGpk84/s1600/mkclear368.jpg" height="640" width="318" /></a></div>
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I ended up using this glue, from Microscale Industries; Micro Kristal Klear. <br />
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(From here I am going to call it MKK since I am lazy.....)<br />
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I have used this glue before, but never so much, or for such a critical and fully visible part of the build. It's a white glue but dries like plastic. Neat stuff. I still have no idea if it can help painted surfaces stick together, but so far so good. My test cases worked, using junker parts from my parts box, so what the heck, it's another 3 weeks gone, and I have to move forward.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvtcU1DHsDjQmZ1uZ-ih-lhHVZuH2M_Qb_89uXGdBAyNJ7gtkhBZJk1KcO8U3uRNZrKqUkTLo5aQRWaBfnTB6Vaipi64Wnwmht3a4isJYR7clrqg2H4YQBOO783gfLZAegBPr8pT6ZYzZx/s1600/glass-w-weights378.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvtcU1DHsDjQmZ1uZ-ih-lhHVZuH2M_Qb_89uXGdBAyNJ7gtkhBZJk1KcO8U3uRNZrKqUkTLo5aQRWaBfnTB6Vaipi64Wnwmht3a4isJYR7clrqg2H4YQBOO783gfLZAegBPr8pT6ZYzZx/s1600/glass-w-weights378.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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I carefully (!!) applied a bit of MKK then used tape and weights to try to seal the deal. After leaving one side on one piece of glass dry for about 24 hours, I MKK'd another, with a bit more glue on a sharpened craft stick, slowly working my way around each window. That's 24 hours between each gluing, so it's taking a really long time. But so far it's worked. We will see if the glass stays in there, or pops out! And BTW, an accidental discovery: Tamiya Acrylic thinner thins MKK but the MKK will still stick after being thinned. Good to know. So my glass is in, it's not perfect, but it's not as bad as it could be. Hazzah!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxtnkjOZD9N8Zchr4fbWWx68ig4gVaxpSD1nJ6tP3K5r63AfRkY_xKqDqiH7_EUTQzNIIkCuS8sHnfK5fo3a3afsk4D_zi8WVBsbBIDjDvn1F48josl_GUAF2StMElSetiMSyZ6bMHz2B/s1600/rearview-splotch366.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxtnkjOZD9N8Zchr4fbWWx68ig4gVaxpSD1nJ6tP3K5r63AfRkY_xKqDqiH7_EUTQzNIIkCuS8sHnfK5fo3a3afsk4D_zi8WVBsbBIDjDvn1F48josl_GUAF2StMElSetiMSyZ6bMHz2B/s1600/rearview-splotch366.jpg" height="290" width="640" /></a></div>
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The next issue that I pondered is the rear view mirror. There seems to be no way to do this without making a huge and fully visible glue blob since the mirror glues directly to the windshield. Revell is kidding me about this right? Are those guys NUTS? But, MKK to the rescue. I stripped the paint off the surface to be joined to the windshield, used some MKK on the windshield side, and let things get tack. Then I put the mirror on and let it dry for about 24 hours. The result is a well glued mirror that looks like it's been oddly scraped before being glued. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizBDzHzpTm2pnGtN7PMKq4J6-JMndrocbJjGH7cF3LPSyoShqPM7i8ESivqT7sVtdx7vNHllIOgPtryYfrVBNFXKnRAARbKuxQtYKTWGRvZP3ZMRic4vAo5NhAch9WHJ0Fcp0oA5dD_f0q/s1600/winsbield-done2369.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizBDzHzpTm2pnGtN7PMKq4J6-JMndrocbJjGH7cF3LPSyoShqPM7i8ESivqT7sVtdx7vNHllIOgPtryYfrVBNFXKnRAARbKuxQtYKTWGRvZP3ZMRic4vAo5NhAch9WHJ0Fcp0oA5dD_f0q/s1600/winsbield-done2369.jpg" height="376" width="640" /></a></div>
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So I put a bit more paint over the white part on the outside of the windshield. It didn't come out perfectly, but it's OK, and I might be able to clean it up with thinner still.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9_9FruMr0-yzrAIMrMMzerR6TJgL5iKBxSvdjmdaffrtyxih2DCVhCDxabyNFWsnOZLojPoHOUwROPlL_IPNtu7n69sXX5dxIjqvnlhxbMQgG4iEEDgEy69hou5PXBJmEuIitfwN2vqrJ/s1600/taillite75.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9_9FruMr0-yzrAIMrMMzerR6TJgL5iKBxSvdjmdaffrtyxih2DCVhCDxabyNFWsnOZLojPoHOUwROPlL_IPNtu7n69sXX5dxIjqvnlhxbMQgG4iEEDgEy69hou5PXBJmEuIitfwN2vqrJ/s1600/taillite75.jpg" height="172" width="640" /></a></div>
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And here's the final challenge for this time. The taillights needed to be foiled and painted. As you can see, some of the paint flowed over the surrounds, which is me being sloppy. But to save the day:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjRZnmEy9eYKd0fs75N5o5-UtVCZiTZ1UjiNzkATiKex89qexMZr7SKQA1hTcSD_27UhuTMy_4CN31MU8jMfv0NudH6dnTdO9mveDOrcWGR6rwGjOvohSVcA9sdk_wXyoKgvCvU485Jzhc/s1600/acrythinner381.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjRZnmEy9eYKd0fs75N5o5-UtVCZiTZ1UjiNzkATiKex89qexMZr7SKQA1hTcSD_27UhuTMy_4CN31MU8jMfv0NudH6dnTdO9mveDOrcWGR6rwGjOvohSVcA9sdk_wXyoKgvCvU485Jzhc/s1600/acrythinner381.jpg" height="640" width="462" /></a></div>
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Testors MM Acryl Dry Paint solvent to the rescue. I put some of this on a bunch of q-tips and erased the paint that had splotched over. But a lesson learned the hard way: once a bit of red paint is on the q-tip I have to throw it away or I end up with paint all over the place. So you need a whole bunch of qtips to make this work.<br />
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Here's the result (this is an extreme macro shot--the lens is maybe 1mm across, and unlike some of the hobby mags, I never, ever retouch my photos!)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEietqStwyNw77HrcdwA4ZIpKlXgSPV2MY_-szxuDSRGqDZUxmXFcSzDTIJ9W9Fkb8uoyfc4vNpd8wbo5tvsAS9Utr362qsjpsqgExBRKfnr4-tiru5YoQl4UFKb931c34W0pWTtBRlYgTqr/s1600/afterthinner82.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEietqStwyNw77HrcdwA4ZIpKlXgSPV2MY_-szxuDSRGqDZUxmXFcSzDTIJ9W9Fkb8uoyfc4vNpd8wbo5tvsAS9Utr362qsjpsqgExBRKfnr4-tiru5YoQl4UFKb931c34W0pWTtBRlYgTqr/s1600/afterthinner82.jpg" height="302" width="640" /></a></div>
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Hmm. Ready for the Smithsionian? Nope. But for me, that's good enough! Time to move on. Once everything is dry it might be time for final assembly. Could it be true?Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6233096987877021435.post-43276850509634195032014-09-07T19:14:00.002-07:002014-09-07T19:18:45.710-07:00AUDI R8--the Devil is in the Details<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>Still baffled by how I am going to glue in the glass </b>I turned my attention to some detail painting for the Revell of Germany Audi R8...let's look at the engine cover:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9BQ1i_F5EH9dzzdRJyXjaiGzG-R0UR82L5zuMQa1wTLPMFG48pApzPRWRC9Dwf2L87yv9S9lVPOv6JxQzoIoxt_-TJGIF0sQ0p5K2qr6rFWE9c9R5bkeS5y-M06zrpx8xmhlWOxZJHUph/s1600/aa_deckbefore2143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9BQ1i_F5EH9dzzdRJyXjaiGzG-R0UR82L5zuMQa1wTLPMFG48pApzPRWRC9Dwf2L87yv9S9lVPOv6JxQzoIoxt_-TJGIF0sQ0p5K2qr6rFWE9c9R5bkeS5y-M06zrpx8xmhlWOxZJHUph/s1600/aa_deckbefore2143.jpg" height="548" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is a tricky part, paint wise. The box art has the whole thing Matt Black but I thought it'd be more fun to do a black/white "two tone" to match the rest of the car. The black side pieces are masked using Tamiya yellow tape and Future floor shine, same as I used on the glass. But how to paint some of the smaller details like the indentation towards the bottom without making a huge mess?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sCTLXZahjFn-iELzEN27pdRswHGnF8rOff-32cVQVX7jIRR7KmBOaaPWNWJErngfO1LaJB7NCxZO09zO6_h0uDBa3zeMOcrtuwNFj7EoTyKZBYRBt9XeI8r0PzZPWUQs232Z9b9sXrPn/s1600/a_paint_thinner2146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sCTLXZahjFn-iELzEN27pdRswHGnF8rOff-32cVQVX7jIRR7KmBOaaPWNWJErngfO1LaJB7NCxZO09zO6_h0uDBa3zeMOcrtuwNFj7EoTyKZBYRBt9XeI8r0PzZPWUQs232Z9b9sXrPn/s1600/a_paint_thinner2146.jpg" height="440" width="640" /></a></div>
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Acrylic wash to the rescue! The more time I spend on this silly hobby the more I find myself using this technique! I use X20A thinner, a stolen Mexican restaurant plastic salsa cup and some Tamiya acrylic. You can use different paints and different thinners but you should stick to acrylic I feel. For instance, I have used Testors Acryl and Windshield wiper fluid, same idea.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibLKhZwVN2HxUbvNwV-RkicF9cKPuCG51jubPpghAHrlDY_y6oUXff_GAo3eeN3gOK8PW8jC3g8CmNDoZrwwo3sAKjwK5tCVVbs-zPRFzh6KchUBNEPF1xlEhCov7UQDquDaIusWMaezZG/s1600/aa_mix2149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibLKhZwVN2HxUbvNwV-RkicF9cKPuCG51jubPpghAHrlDY_y6oUXff_GAo3eeN3gOK8PW8jC3g8CmNDoZrwwo3sAKjwK5tCVVbs-zPRFzh6KchUBNEPF1xlEhCov7UQDquDaIusWMaezZG/s1600/aa_mix2149.jpg" height="516" width="640" /></a></div>
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I put about 1/3 lid of thinner and 4 drops of paint into the cup, then stir it up with a wood stick I stole from a coffee shop. (Notice how in hobby mags they always show the tool with the paint to add drama? Here's my attempt at the same thing....)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicVKd3iZRszW7ry7d8_BZ9djRXC2fEfLlHlNqOPV0i6UnP0drfzj9uM4cwpEoU4Byk1BLbdRtzrcfdQRV8MEyrpgf4qKlfMRLgJntWnNyB-GiUt93L7awsRDjlZn-Aff9nmfJCHqKXiSx-/s1600/aa_lid-after2151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicVKd3iZRszW7ry7d8_BZ9djRXC2fEfLlHlNqOPV0i6UnP0drfzj9uM4cwpEoU4Byk1BLbdRtzrcfdQRV8MEyrpgf4qKlfMRLgJntWnNyB-GiUt93L7awsRDjlZn-Aff9nmfJCHqKXiSx-/s1600/aa_lid-after2151.jpg" height="374" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now put the lid on a surface where the indentation is level and fill it up. Easy! Now the hard part. Don't bump it, don't move it, don't pick it up to admire you work, or anything else, for at least 12 hours! Or else the paint will spill out! I have some overflow here, I will touch that up when everything is dry, but it's looking not too bad already.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB0Ah55KMCjbLwgNU1OyVK7-eXsRRY6_BdYQe_UD6vAkCCnJn2Ds5B_3JEKI25o7lb5PM2iabRWZ0ip31460zm23UrpINvuD6xKU6CXMhANdBZ4k1xdhIChsODwWaxMHbn3LhfwBcK3XK0/s1600/_aa_brakes2141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB0Ah55KMCjbLwgNU1OyVK7-eXsRRY6_BdYQe_UD6vAkCCnJn2Ds5B_3JEKI25o7lb5PM2iabRWZ0ip31460zm23UrpINvuD6xKU6CXMhANdBZ4k1xdhIChsODwWaxMHbn3LhfwBcK3XK0/s1600/_aa_brakes2141.jpg" height="246" width="640" /></a></div>
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When it's dry you end up with all sorts of cool detail painting, like some of the wash I put on these brake pads. And it's really easy!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNc9nunQuLrQjcAEbX-LQfP6C1VqWJ1L6KOkcnh1J4YAU-YtMJIm6pnfu4Rzf3wccyapMQFF-Ktd5pyWOwluzujBrEkYokuAbQYviIGL93bGx-lURqACh99m9lbLRdxsOsNEP_0wZEMbyK/s1600/aa_SOLVENT2154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNc9nunQuLrQjcAEbX-LQfP6C1VqWJ1L6KOkcnh1J4YAU-YtMJIm6pnfu4Rzf3wccyapMQFF-Ktd5pyWOwluzujBrEkYokuAbQYviIGL93bGx-lURqACh99m9lbLRdxsOsNEP_0wZEMbyK/s1600/aa_SOLVENT2154.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></div>
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And here's the best part--if you are washing acrylic into enamel or lacquer, you can use acrylic thinners like the Dried Paint Solvent above to clean up any spills, overflows, or other count chockulas without attacking the base color coat! COOL! <br />
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And windex will remove ALL of it in case you screw the pooch! Just use the thinners sparingly. For the R8 the color coat is acrylic as well so I can't use my thinners to fix wash issues, I have to touch up. Oh well, live and learn.<br />
<br />Charlie Lammhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10741609027326593652noreply@blogger.com0