Friday, May 22, 2015

69 Olds 442--Speed Kills!

OK time to call it quits.  From last time: I am trying to build this AMT 69 olds as fast as I can and it shows.



 The 69 olds is done and it's time to end it.  What was supposed to be a one evening build became a series of evenings trying to undo what I screwed up because I rushed.  I am learning, with model building, and I imagine any craft, you can work at a good pace, but at times you can overdo it.




This speed build proves what the Supremes, and not Phil Collins, said.  I won't quote it here.
Thing is!  This is actually a pretty nifty little kit.  The foil work is challenging, but if done well you could have a pretty good looking build. I rushed through the foil, the paint, the interior....


Who knows, I might build it again sometime....
















Next time, more patience!

Sunday, May 17, 2015

60 Olds Speed Build--NOT!

Because I am too lazy to put in the hard work on the 69 Chevelle convertible, I've been biding my time on a quick and easy build.  Sort of.  Turns out, it's not been quick, and it's not been easy. In fact, it's become a real pain!


So here it is: the AMT/Ertl 69 Olds 4-4-2, built as a curbside.  I am stealing suspension and engine compartment parts for the Chevelle, but I have the body and trim left over.  Let's build that up fast! I applied a super quick paint job, and also a super quick interior mask.  So I just need to glue it all together.  Well, that's what I thought anyway!


















The problems began when I tried to glue in the windshield.  I didn't test fit it, this is "modern" tooling I figure, and the AMT guys got it right, right?  Not!! The windshield is about 3-4 scale inches short in the vertical, so I couldn't get it to sit right.




























That's not the end of world; I crafted a new windshield using clear plastic and glued it in using 5 minute clear epoxy.  But here's where things started to go very, very wrong.







































In the process of wrestling out the old glass and putting in the new I broke the A pillar on the drivers side, which wiped out the bare metal foil, leaving what you see here: it looks like an evil mouse took a rodent-sized baseball bat to the A-pillar and beat the hell out of it.  I have no idea what to do here; since this is a speed build (or was) I don't want to rip everything out and start over.  I hate to say it but I might have to let this one go.  Good to face down the obsessive compulsive disorder every now and then right?
































While I was recovering from the disaster of the broken A-pillar I thought I'd have some fun with the decal stripes, and for the rear, it went on pretty fine.






































The rear decals got some Microscale Micro Set.  As you know if you've followed this blog: This stuff make any decal look a lot more realistic since it sort of "melts" the decal into the paint.

But for the front I used some Micro Sol as well, which is really for wrestling decals into tough spots, like around rounded corners.  I didn't need to use this but I did, and it ruined the front decals, turning them into a wrinkled, soggy mess, so I removed them.  No picture taken.  I was too upset with myself.

So what should have taken a few minutes has now turned into several evenings of fear and loathing. In the meantime the Chevelle project is languishing.  I am really not sure what to do next.  This Olds model will probably get finished soon but then end up in the garbage.  Lesson learned: I need to test fit, even with a speed build.  Don't foil until I'm sure everything is going to fit. Also, don't use Micro Sol unless you have to!

Sunday, April 26, 2015

Aside Again: 69 Olds--60 minute Interior including Mask!

Still taking a break from the 69 Chevelle--I don't know, it might just be too much work.  For that project I Ebayed a 69 Olds to steal engine and chassis components for the Chevelle.  What to do with the left over parts?  From last time--SPEED BUILD!


If you've followed this blog at all, you've seen it too many times: I tend to take a really long time for my "serious" builds, sometimes a year or more.  I don't know what is more noteworthy, that the damn things take so long, or, for the time they take, they don't come out better than they do!  OK, to keep my sanity, I am interspersing side projects where I build things as fast as I can, and building up the "Olds Leftovers" is becoming one of them.

Last time I painted the body in 15 minutes, not including a tiny bit of drying time, but including time to polish.  Not bad eh?  This time it's on the the interior.  How fast is too fast?


Just to make it challenging, I didn't glue it all together and paint it matte black.  That would be too easy!  I tried to mask it too!


For the mask I used bare metal foil, which turned out to be a pain, not because it was that hard to get it on or trim it, but that it was hard to remove it!  I used liquid mask for the right angles (paint always flows in there otherwise) and shot it with a quick coat of Testors One Coat Clear to try to seal the masks. I seriously doubt any of it was dry when I shot it with Tamiya Matte Black, but it all stuck; I got lucky!  So: The whole interior build, including dash detailing and whatnot, took about 60 minutes.  I used quick dry lacquers, so as not to have to wait around for things to dry, and worked on one thing (quickly!) while another thing was drying. I am also finding myself using sharpies more and more, as those pens (I use ink Sharpies, not paint pen Sharpies), cover bare plastic OK and there is almost no dry time, and obviously no brushes to clean up.



Here's how it all came out: well, OK I guess.  In my photos, as always, you see no retouches or attempts to pretty things up, and with speed builds, what you see is what you get. The red paint isn't red paint at all, it's red sharpie, applied to save time.



I dunno, it's looking damn ratty to me, but I will dust it off and maybe clean it up a bit.  Since it's going into a fastback, on the shelf of my kitchen, where it's dark, it will probably be just fine.


A new tool for this speed build thing: for cutting Bare Metal Foil, a really good modeler named "Dr Cranky" suggests on his youtube: using surgical blades vs. Xacto #11's.  I tried that for the cutting the interior mask (as well as the body BMF--next time?) and liked it very much.  Go Dr Cranky!

Friday, April 3, 2015

Aside: 69 AMT Olds 4-4-2: the 20 Minute Paint Job--including Polish!

From last time--it looks like the 69 Chevelle Convertible is going to take a long time to build!  So I was thinking, how can I make a part of this go faster?  How about the paint?  How fast can I do that?


I purchased this AMT Olds 4-4-2 to steal chassis and engine compartment bits for the Chevelle (more about that next time?).  That means I have a leftover body. I got to thinking: can I paint this leftover in 15-20 minutes time (including prep, paint, and polish), and not have it look completely horror show? Why???  Why not?

Let's get started! I took about 5 minutes prepping the body, which mostly involved sanding off some mold lines with 600 grit wet and dry, then going over it very quickly with 2000 grit.  


Next, time to prime: OmniPak MasterBlend is the primer to use.  It dries in about a minute and I have never seen it barf with any color coats I choose. There are lots of primers for plastic model building out there, but I think this one is the best.

After misting on a coat, waited a minute and misted on another.  


Next, on to color coat: Duplicolor Perfect Match is easy to use, can be found in any old car parts store, and for rattle can paint, goes on nice and smooth, I think.  So right after the primer was dry to the touch (maybe 2 minutes?) I put on 3 light color coats, waiting a minute between each coat.  Normally I'd let the color coat dry and sand, but this is speed-painting, and we are already about 10 minutes in!  So forget the sanding. I went crazy with Una Capa Laca clear.  2 very heavy coats, dumping it on until the paint looked like it was going to run.  I waited about one minute between coats.  Yes the color coat was still wet when I capa laca'd.  Sorry!


I let it dry for about 4 hours. I won't count that time I guess, I ran some errands and took a nap, so that doesn't count right?  After the body was pretty dry, I quickly (!!) sanded with 2000 grit wet and dry (wet), then followed with Megular's 7, Tamiya Polish "Finish", and Novus 2 and 1.  These are all polishes I have used before, just never this fast.  I mean I barely applied each, got the paint and cloth to go squeak-squeak and moved on.


So how did it come out?  Really, OK I think!  You can see here, there is a bit of wavy gravy in the trunk but overall, for 20 minutes total work it is not horror show.


I think with 15 more minutes polishing (no reason I have to say I am done, but I could just say I am) and some foil, decals, and other finishing steps, this isn't going to look too bad.


The "shine" isn't all that bad either.  It's a bit cloudy and not as deep as I'd like. I figure I should have at least waited for the color coat to dry!  But again, this is 20 minutes total work.  Yes, 2 part Polyurethane is going to look better, but I can't even get that paint mixed and ready to shoot in 20 minutes.  Rattle cans rule!

Saturday, March 28, 2015

69 Chevelle Convertible--Body Work, Part II

Still working on an AMT 1:25 69 Chevelle convertible.  From last time: this is something I built when I was a kid (well that's how I remember it anyway).  The amount of work to fix the obvious "mistakes' in the tooling is more involved than I thought!


You can see the box-stock body on the left.  My work, so far, is on the right.  Ah! The rocker panels! AMT ker-blew it on this one. To get a "meaner" 69 look,  I cut the rocker panels off the body and re-glued them at a more abrupt angle, so they are about 10 degrees from perpendicular; the stock AMT tooling is a rounded 30 degrees and looks, to my eyes, too "feminine". Using square styrene strip and dabbing on a lot of glue has gone into trying to fix this (so far!).


The fender flares are done, well almost, they stick out much further than the box-stock flares, a subtle change that (I think) adds a bit more realism.  


The putty went on the doors this morning and putty presents pain!  Painful but necessary: the bottom of the doors should fade gracefully into an abrupt "jump" to the rocker panels; it's one of the things about the 1:1 '69 I really like.  


Putty presents problems as well as pain: sanding this smooth without damaging the fender flares, how will I do that? 


Never stop thinking about trim! HaHa! I haven't test fitted the rear taillight/bumper assembly.  To my eyes the stock bumper assembly looks so totally hella butt wrong compared to the 1:1 car that I have no idea what I will do; I may have to cut the rear bumper apart and scratch build the taillight housings.  
  

OK to make things interesting I am trying a different putty for this project.  I have never seen "Tamiya white putty" before, only "Basic" and "light sensitive".  So here's what I used on the doors. Compared to "Basic" the putty is a bit more viscous and is indeed white.  I like trying new things....


I test fit the front grille/bumper, and to my amazement, it fits pretty well, for an old AMT kit.  But again, it's just plain wrong.  The headlights are too small,  to my eyes, the grille isn't tall or wide enough, and the assembly lacks the characteristic "grille ears" of the 69 Chevelle; again one of my favorite things about the 1:1 '69 Chevelle that AMT just plain left off.  I am thinking I may have to de-chrome the bumper/grille, cut it up, and scratch build what's missing or needs resizing.  This is an extremely visible part of the build. Can't wait!

Sunday, March 15, 2015

69 Chevy Chevelle Convertible--Body Work Part I

From last time, I am building a recently reissued 69 Chevelle Convertible in 1:25 scale.  Also from last time: the original tooling ain't much by today's standards, and at the very least, the body needs a lot of work.


Diving in! The first question: I bought 2 kits, which one should I use?  I chose the one with more flash because the hood fit better, and a whacked out hood looks bad no matter how good the rest of the build is!


The front flares look all wrong; on one side of the body they are too small; on the other non-existent.  I have never tried to add flares to a stock kit but I also know from other builds: just go for it.  I am using styrene glue (Testor's stinky-red) to glue some plastic stock to boldy go where no AMT has gone before.

I glue down a bit and let it dry, then I glue some more. The driver's side rear is cinched down but still needs quite a bit of shaping.  I plan to sand and file and maybe shape with some Eurosoft, but I don't want to remove too much. This will be tricky!


The side trim looks like a 68; AMT must have not "fixed" this in 69 to save money.  The area where the front of the body meets the front grille needs some reshaping as well. Generally in 69 the body lines became more "abrupt" so my focus is giving the body some of the sharp lines of the 1:1 69.



I shaved off some of the old mold lines with a Dremel tool and glued more styrene flat stock over.  It's going to take a lot of sanding to get this to look right.



Overall: as I thought this will be a whole lot of work and I was right! I am going to run along now and order some putty online; I am going to need it.  


Tuesday, March 3, 2015

69 Chevelle Convertible--Vintage Build, Sort of!

If you've followed this blog at all: I get nostalgic about making models.  For me this hobby is all about simpler times, in my Central Valley basement, with my brothers, the AM radio playing Top 40.
There were bullies on every corner, sure, there was endless racism and Nixon and the Vietnam war, which as a sheltered 7 year old didn't mean much. The principal of my grade school was probably a fascist but I guess I'll never know that either.  Time tends to heal all wounds.

For me model making is about going back there, to the good times.  And not just to the good times, but to the cool kits.  Those old kits made my brothers and me happy, and as soon as we had some lawn mowing money we rode our bikes to the 5 and dime and we got the latest AMT or MPC thing.

OK fast forward 45 years. With the Internet, you can still get pretty much any kit, but for rare vintage ones, you will have to pay. In the spirit of time travel back to the early Seventies,  I have purchased and even built a few vintage kits like an MPC Toyota GT2000. It can be frustrating: expensive to buy, lacking in detail compared to modern kits that are designed and tooled with computers. And no spares if I screw something up!




OK about this next build, an AMT 1:25 1969 Chevelle convertible.  It's a vintage kit, gone for decades, but recently reissued by Round 2.  (About Round 2: These guys must be going through endless cellars in corporate Michigan and Indiana and finding old injection molding tooling from the Sixties, polishing the molds, sending them off to China, getting a bunch of cheapo styrene molded parts back, and lovingly packing them in cool vintage cardboard artwork and plastic baggies.  The global economy at work! )

The AMT 69 Chevelle Convertible lists in Coulter and Shelton's Directory of Model Car Kits as last issued in 1977 and having a street value of $95.  After some more research--those guys are right, 77 is when this kit was originally released, so 8 years or so after the 1:1 car's debut.  I went on eBay and couldn't find a Chevelle convertible kit from 1977 available at any price.  So the original 69 Chevelle from AMT is a rare bird, I figure.  Or was.

Due to the hard work from these Round 2 guys, this rare bird isn't rare any longer, and I got the convertible 1:25 kit for $20 on Ebay.  Go Round 2!  You guys rule!

(Actually from lessons learned on the Toyota vintage build, I bought 2!)

OK that's where the good news about the AMT 69 Chevelle convertible ends.

The bad news is that back in the 70's plastic model kits had serious issues and they still have serious issues.  I don't imagine the Round 2 folks have $750K (? some big number here?) to tool up a new version of an old kit, and that's not what they are about regardless, so it seems.  To understand why old AMT is really, well, old AMT, it's time for the way back machine.  This was the "golden age of model building".  Back then we didn't play video games, or watch Netflix streaming, or text our friends. We saved our lunch money, we built models, we painted bodies with 20 cent brushes, and if something didn't fit, well, it was good enough to show your parents and maybe get a 2nd place at the local hobby shop model contest.  It was good enough for us, and therefore it was good enough for AMT.  AMT and MPC were boss!


Now, as an adult with an obsessive need to get every damn thing right, vintage tooling issues present an endless list of problems to solve. Let's start with the interior!  Modern kits have interiors that come in pieces, making them easier to mask and paint, but for these oldies, the interior is almost always a tub.  The 69 Chevelle tub is a disaster! It has huge ejector pin marks in plain sight (remember this is a convertible!) and inner door panel detail that is almost non-existent and too 2-dimensional.


Next problem: flash and a general lack of crispness in the molding process.  Flash is when the plastic runs between the 2 halves of the mold during the injection process.  General lack of crispness, well I am not sure why that happens, and perhaps this was an issue back in 1971 and I never noticed.  Some more modern kits have flash issues; the Ford F1 pickup speed build  had a lot of it, but on these old AMT kits, it's just ridiculous!  All the molding here is pretty bad.  Everything, and I mean everything, will have to be carefully sanded, filed, and cleaned up.


And--the dreaded "chrome headlights".  Yuck! Changing this out for "real" scale lenses (yes I know that's an oxymoron) will be a real challenge.


How about:"it just plain don't fit!" This is the interior tub test fitted into the 69 Chevelle's body. That looks like a one foot scale gap to me.  On these old AMT kits, I have found the hood, the trim, and exhaust system, valances (front and rear), and interior tub, just don't, well, line up, ever!  If this test fit is any indication, it will be a lot of work to correct fit issues.


Finally: "It just ain't right".  On these old kits, the craftsmen making the tooling got some things way wrong, and the kit doesn't correspond to the 1:1 subject.  EG! The flares on the wheel wells on the AMT 69 Chevelle are completely out to lunch! Correcting this, along with whatever other oddities I find, and I will find lots of them, I am sure, is going to be hours of work!




Now the balance sheet. There is still a cool factor about old AMT and MPC that can't be ignored. I have always felt their craftsmen loved cars, and loved this hobby, and you can tell by their work, even when they got things wrong, there is still something really fun about it.  And, as far as fixing the above mentioned issues,  I have a bit more lawn money now, as an employed adult, versus when I was 12.  So I can buy a couple modern tooled kits--the two Camaros you see here, and rob parts out of them to try to correct the issues with the Chevelle without taking months scratchbuilding replacement parts or making endless trips to the parts box.

So overall, why did I do this?  The challenge for sure.  The fact that I made a chevelle model when I was 10 and it came out pretty well and my dad, the car fiend, said he liked it. I have seen youtubes and forum entires of other modelers reviewing this kit and being disappointed with the poor quality in general and complaining about some of the issues I touch on here.  Some of these Internet authors even say Round 2 is ripping us off.  Not true! I will never complain that Round 2 (or AMT) makes a substandard product; Round 2 is faithfully reproducing kits that were flawed to begin with, but still super fun, and we are lucky to have this reissue at all!

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